DAVID WEBB Black Enameled Cocktail Ring In 18Kt Gold With Rubellite & Diamonds
A geometric cocktail ring designed by David Webb (1925-1975).
A massive statement cocktail ring created in New York City at the atelier of David Webb, circa 1980. This bold and superlative piece is masterfully crafted in solid 18-karat yellow gold, with diamond settings executed in platinum .950./999 fineness, all finished with a high polish that enhances its strong presence. The design features pronounced geometric forms, a hallmark of David Webb’s distinctive and commanding aesthetic. The ring is further embellished with applications of black enamel, creating a dramatic contrast against the rich gold surfaces and the brilliance of the gemstones. It is crowned with an impressive rubellite tourmaline of substantial size, displaying a vivid pinkish-red hue, and is complemented by an elegant arrangement of forty-eight white, colorless VVS-grade diamonds. The diamonds are mounted in platinum to maximize their brilliance and emphasize their luminosity within the composition. A powerful and visually arresting statement piece, this ring exemplifies the iconic style and exceptional craftsmanship of David Webb, seamlessly combining bold form, luxurious materials, and refined design. The total combined weight of the gemstones is approximately 59.52 carats, underscoring the ring’s extraordinary presence and importance.
Country: New York City, United States.
Period: Modernist, 1980.
Designer: David Webb.
Diamonds: Mount in a pave setting, with 48 round brilliant cut diamonds, with a total combined weight of about 4.32 carats, white colorless E/F color, VVS clarity.
Rubellite: Mount on top in a bezel setting, with 1 oval cabochon cut (24 x 20 x 14 mm) carved with fluted patterns of a translucent red rubellite, with a weight of about 55.20 carats. (The weight of the rubellite was calculated by formula).
Birthstone: Rubellite for the month of October.
Materials: .750 Yellow gold, .950 platinum, black enamel, rubellite-tourmaline and white diamonds.
Weight: 46.6 Grams, (29.90 Dwt).
Size: Actually is 6.5 and may be resized up or down on special request. In addition is fitted inside the shank with a spring sizer adjuster to fit smaller sizes.
Measurements: 30 mm by 26 mm (1.18 x 1.02 Inches) and raise 20 mm over the finger.
Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark, the mark for the assay and warranty of the .750/.999 yellow gold and the .950/.999 platinum, the five-digits serial numbers and signed in full as follows, "©DAVID WEBB 18KT .950 PLAT 68465".
David Webb
He was an American jeweler. On July 28, 1948, he founded David Webb, the company, which opened at 2 West 46th Street. Among his clients were Elizabeth Taylor, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis and Bárbara Streisand and Beyoncé have also worn his jewelry. Born in Asheville, North Carolina in 1925, Webb was a self-taught designer whose work included dragon bracelets, Maltese cross brooches and animal motifs. In 1964, The Duke of Windsor purchased a bracelet for his wife. Diana Vreeland, a noted columnist and editor of Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue, was often seen with a David Webb black-and-white enamel zebra bangle.
Literature: David Webb, The Quintessential American Jeweler. Ruth Peltason, Assouline New York 2013. For similar examples of this pattern.
Collateral: This David Webb cocktail ring is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this David Webb cocktail ring is excellent. Beside the little normal wear there is no damage or evidence of wear to the gold. The 49 gemstones are secured in the settings. This ring was carefully inspected to guarantee the condition & authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: R041726MOENM/1.120
