Burle Marx 1968 Brazil Necklace In 18Kt Yellow Gold With Forma Livre Aquamarine
Necklace designed by Haroldo Burle Marx (1911-1991).
A sculptural piece of modernism art, created in Brazil by the artist, designer and jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx, back in the late 1960's. This rare forma livre flexible necklace has been crafted as a one-of-a-kind piece in solid yellow gold of 18 karats and finished with the iconic Florentine patterns. Suited with a push boxed security lock and a hinged figure 8 for extra safety.
Aquamarines: Mount in bezel settings, with a pair of fancy freeform (forma livre) cabochon cuts (34 x 11 x 9 mm), (12 x 10 x 8 mm) of a natural Brazilian blue aquamarines, with a combined weight of about 32 carats.
Weight: 51.95 grams (33.31 Dwt).
Size: Fit a neck up to 16 inches (40 Cm).
Drop element measurements: 38 mm by 16 mm (1.51 x 0.63 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark, the assay mark for the 18kt gold and signed, "BURLE MARX .750 IND BRAS GB 791".
Haroldo Burle Marx, born in Rio de Janeiro in 1911. He was a designer, lapidary and gemologist than ran a successful workshop and gallery in Rio de Janeiro from the 1930 through the 1980. Haroldo studied gemology in Idar-Oberstein, Germany, the center of the gemstone cutting industry before opening his shop at Rodolfo Dantas, 6 Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro in 1954. There he employed a small team of Brazilian and Italian craftsman, including master goldsmith, Bruno Guidi. His exceptional work was a source of pride for Brazil. When dignitaries visited the country, the government often commissioned Haroldo to create pieces to present to them. Japan’s Empress Nagako, for one example, received an opal necklace when she visited the country. Queen Margrethe of Denmark wore a Burle Marx demi suite of an aquamarine ring and brooch on her wedding trip in 1966.
Burle Marx did pioneer new looks and his influence can be seen in Brazilian jewelry designer’s work to this day. When his pieces were set with gems designed by his brother Roberto the combination was something truly special. The gems Roberto conceived were in a style called the Forma Livre Cut or free form cut. The unusual shapes transform Brazilian semi precious gems into architectural elements in the jewels. The jewelry works of Roberto Burle Marx and Haroldo Burle Marx, in different ways, are iconic representations of Brasil’s innovative fine jewelry designing between the 1950 and 1980, indeed, of Brazilian modernism art movement.
This rare piece have an obvious collaboration between three big names of the Brazilian arts; Haroldo Burle Marx (1911-1991) the designer and jeweler with galleries in brazil and Washington DC., Bruno Guidi the master chief goldsmith and lead designer of Burle Marx and finally Roberto Burle Marx (1909-1994), Haroldo's brother, designer and a landscape architect.
Note: We are offering the cocktail ring, the earrings and the convertible pendant-brooch in suite, in our other listings. Please see the picture of all pieces together.
Provenance: A private collection from New York city, USA.
Collateral: It is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this necklace is excellent with gorgeous rich reddish patina. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. Both aquamarines are secured in the setting. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: N110922TNNM/1.248
