-Masriera Art Nouveau Plique à Jour Enamel Convertible Brooch In 18Kt Yellow Gold With VS Diamonds
An art nouveau enameled convertible brooch designed by Masriera.
Colorful piece, created in Barcelona Spain by the jewelry designer Gloria Masriera for Masriera y Carreras. This beautiful brooch has been crafted with art nouveau revival patterns in solid rich yellow gold of 18 karats with high polished finish. The main element has been created with organic design and embellished with application of translucent multicolor enamels in the plique a jour technique.
Diamonds: Mount in a millegrain setting, with 39 round brilliant cut diamonds, 1.17 carats, white colorless E color, VS-1 clarity.
Pearl: Embellished with a hanging round Akoya white pearl of 7 mm.
Weight: 30.5 Grams, (19.55 Dwt).
Measurements: 67 mm by 42 mm (2.63 x 1.65 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark, the gold assay mark, the serial numbers and signed in full, "MASRIERA Y CARRERAS".
Masriera is the iconic brand of Art Nouveau jewelry. The roots of this brand date back to the 19th century, when LLuís Masriera, born into a family of artists, painters, enamellers and jewellers firmly linked to the cultural and artistic life of Barcelona, decided to open his first workshop in the city to explore new creative channels of expression of the Art Nouveau. Carefully crafted, delicate and exquisite jewelry that embodies the world of fantasy and colour of this artistic movement. In 1839, Josep Masriera I Vidal, along with his brother Francesco, completed his apprenticeship as a silversmith. Together, they opened their own workshop in Barcelona. The following year, the brothers began selling wholesale jewelry. Subsequently, over the next six decades, the Masriera family built a solid reputation for their jewelry. Joseph and his wife, Eulàlia Manovens i Roldós, had five children. All of their children helped out in the workshop. For six decades, the brothers produced award-winning jewels which danced on the edge between traditional and modern. They expanded their techniques to include goldsmithing and enameling.
Literature: Masriera Jewellery, 200 Years of History, Pila Velez, Ambit Barcelona 1999, for similar pieces illustrated.
Note: Plique à jour from the French is "letting in daylight". Is a very difficult vitreous enamelling technique where the enamel is applied in cells, similar to cloisonné, but with no backing in the final product, so light can shine through the transparent or translucent enamel. It is in effect a miniature version of stained-glass and is considered very challenging technically: high time consumption (up to 4 months per item), with a high failure rate. The technique is similar to that of cloisonné, but using a temporary backing that after firing is dissolved by acid or rubbed away. A different technique relies solely on surface tension, for smaller areas. In Japan the technique is known as shotai-jippo (shotai shippo), and is found from the 19th century on.
Note: Millegrain is a jewelry technique which refers to the textural effect of a close-set line of metal beads that are typically used as a border on the edges or bezels of jewelry.
Collateral: It is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this piece is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage or trace of wear to the gold. The diamonds and the enamel are secured in their settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P010322SONM/.7331
