-French 1850 Etruscan Revival Enamel Brooch In 18Kt Yellow Gold With Ruby
French Etruscan-Merovingian revival brooch.
Fantastic piece with gorgeous eye appeal, created in France back in the 1850. It was crafted in three dimensions with textured chiseled floriated patterns, in solid yellow gold of 18 karats. The style of this brooch is fascinating since mix together the styles of the Merovingian dynasty and the early Frankish ancient jewelry, with the 19th century fashion in vogue of the Etruscan-Byzantine revival. This piece is very enigmatic and unique!, it is embellished with applications of green enamel and white cloisonne enamel. It is constructed simulating an ancient fibula brooch and is fitted at the reverse with a hinged pin bar with a safety hook.
Gemstones: Bezel set in the center, with 1 oval faceted cut of a natural vivid red ruby of 0.75 carats.
Birthstone: Ruby, for the month of September.
Weight: 23.65 Grams, (15.16 Dwt).
Measurements: 67 mm by 42 mm (2.63 x 1.65 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with the French national mark of the head of the eagle (1838-) for the assay and warranty of the 18kt gold. Stamped with the maker's maitre mark inside a lozange cartouche, engraved with an unidentified signature and engraved with the inventory numbers, 424.
Merovingian Jewelry
The strong use of colors and use of light, characterize Germanic and Frankish jewelry. The inlay of colored glass and stones and decorations with niello and enamel cause a feast for the eye. Precious stones were very popular. Color was extremely important to the new inhabitants of France and eastern Europe. Sapphires, emeralds and above all garnets were used intensively. Enamels were used as well, mainly after Byzantine masters’ examples. Pearls from the Orient as well as freshwater pearls from Scotland were in great demand. A very typical way of using the color red was to produce gold objects covered with cloisonnégarnet inlay. A basic shape was cast in gold and then further worked manually to form a geometric pattern of cells (cloisons) in which sliced and polished bits of garnet would be placed. A reflective surface, placed behind the stone, guaranteed a bright red appearance. Items decorated in this style often are stunning pieces of jewelry.
Historical Note: Merovingian dynasty and Frankish dynasty traditionally reckoned as the “first race” of the kings of France between the 476 and the 750 AD. They first appear as "Kings of the Franks" in the Roman army of northern Gaul. By the year 509 AD they had united all the Franks and northern Gaulish Romans under their rule. They conquered most of Gaul, defeating the Visigoths in the 507 AD and the Burgundians in the 534 AD, and also extended their rule into Raetia back in the year 537 AD.
Collateral: It is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this ring is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. All gemstones, are secured in the settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P020823AONM/.5685
