OSTERTAG Paris 1930 Art Deco Pendant Brooch Platinum 20.24 Ctw Diamonds & Emeralds
French art deco convertible pendant brooch designed by Arnold Ostertag.
This is an exceptional convertible pendant-brooch, created in Paris France during the art deco period at the jewelry atelier of Ostertag, back in the 1925-1930. This fabulous piece of jewelry is very rare and was designed as a convertible necklace pendant and a brooch. Masterfully crafted with amazing details in solid platinum and parts in white gold. It is embellished with a magnificent selections of natural earth mined diamonds and untreated natural Colombian translucent green emeralds. The gemstone's settings are a gorgeous pave, and finished with millegrain patterns.
The brooch in general is in greats antique condition and is fitted with several innovative techniques; as pressure hinges, a curved pin bar with a closing snap and a removable elaborated piece to wear as a brooch. The upper part is fitted with a hinged piece and can be attached to a sautoir, a pearls necklace as pictured or a short chain. Very impressive and amazing piece with really exceptional quality of French design from 1920's. Ostertag pieces are exceptionally rare and have the highest quality gems and workmanship.
Diamonds: Mounted in French pave settings, with 26 larger European rose cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 9.30 carats, mixed colors F/G/H and K/L, and VS/SI clarity.
Diamonds: Mounted in French pave settings, with 148 graduated smaller to medium European rose and round cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of 7.56 carats, G/H color, and VS/SI clarity
Emeralds: Mounted in the center in a millegrain bezel setting, with 1 Emerald faceted cut cornered cut (8.5 x 5 x 4 mm) of a natural Colombian green emerald of about 1.23 carats.
Emeralds: Symmetrically mounted around in millegrain bezel settings, with 14 French mixed calibre cuts of natural Colombian green emeralds, with an estimate total weight of 2.15 carats.
Birthstone: Emeralds for the month of May.
Weight: 30.95 Grams, (19.84 Dwt).
Measurements: 66 mm by 40 mm by 10 mm (2.60 x 1.57 x 0.39 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with French marks, the maker's mark RF, two times with the national mark for the assay and warranty of the platinum and signed as follow, "OSTERTAG FRANCE".
Ostertag
Ostertag was founded in the 1920s by the Swiss-born Arnold Ostertag, who opened his jewelry house in Place Vendôme in 1922, as well as in Cannes, Le Touquet and New York city. At the time his creations equaled those of the great houses of Place Vendôme, and his jewelry was highly sought after by both, the French and American clientele. Strongly inspired by India and orient, he often used engraved or ribbed colored gemstones in his pieces. Ostertag was well versed in the codes of the decorative arts, which he also applied in the creation of various exquisite objects: clocks, bags, powder compacts, cigarette cases and boxes. Ostertag participated in the 1929 Musée Galliera exhibition “Les Arts de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie et Orfèvrerie » in Paris. During the war, in 1939 he moved to the United States, where he died in 1940.
Literature: Sylvie Raulet, Art Deco Jewelry, 1985 Rizzoli, for a similar examples illustrated.
Millegrain
Millegraining is an extremely tiny beaded detail that finishes an edge on a piece of jewelry. The detail is applied as a fine beaded texture, usually on platinum. The millegrained edges on platinum can be on a fine wire, a knife edge wire, a bezel setting around a stone, an outline of a pattern or design detail, a channel edge, and as with the beads in gold, used to finish a design detail. The millegraining of the metal edges allows the diamonds and gemstones to sparkle without competing with the reflected light from a highly polished platinum edge.
Collateral: This Ostertag pendant brooch is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Collateral: This Ostertag pendant brooch is accompanied by an appraisal certificate, prepared by a Gia certified gemologist, stating all the description, carats weight and characteristics of the gemstones. The emeralds are from Colombian origin, not treated and not oiled.
Condition: The overall condition of this Ostertag pendant brooch is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the platinum. The 189 gemstones are secured in the settings. This piece was carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P121223ATNEM/.8927
