Victorian 1837 Mughal Tutti Frutti Brooch In 17Kt Gold With 20.69 Ctw In Carved Gemstones
Mughal tutti frutti jardiniere brooch with carved gemstones.
A beautiful colorful piece, created by the Mughals courts during the early Victorian era, circa 1830 or earlier. This unusual historical rare piece has been crafted in the shape of a jardiniere with a bouquet of flowers in yellow gold of 17 karats. Fitted at the reverse with a hinged double stick pins to wear as a brooch in a dress or hat. Embellished with a great selection of natural gemstones, all of them original from the stated period.
This type of antique pieces, with the quality of gems they contain, is very rare to see this condition. This is because at the beginning of the art deco period, almost all these pieces were destroyed to remove their gems. This practice was normally done to make new, more fashionable pieces of jewelry. The Jewelry houses in Paris, such as Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels and Boucheron were specialists in this new fashion for the manufacture of the iconic tutti frutti pieces.
Diamonds: Mounted in flush settings, with 61 antique rose cut diamonds with an approximate combined weight of 3.15 carats.
Gemstones: Mounted in prongs settings with multicolor gemstones, all of them cut with organic patterns, such 11 green emeralds in the shape of leaves, 4 red rubies in the shape of flowers and 1 blue sapphire in the shape of a flying butterfly. The last one is mount in a en tremblant sprut. All of them with a combined weight of 17.54 carats.
Weight: 16.45 Grams, (10.54 Dwt).
Measurements: 79 mm by 42 mm (3.12 x 1.65 Inches).
Hallmarks: No marks, tested for 17kt gold
History: The first Tutti Frutti piece was designed in 1901 by Pierre Cartier. It was a necklace commissioned by queen Alexandra to be worn with three Indian gowns she received as a gift. The designs are considered the perfect mix of east and west because they are made up of brightly colored gemstones (like sapphires, rubies and emeralds) carved using Indian techniques and set in French platinum and diamond mountings. The style became extremely popular during the 1920's, but it wasn't christened the 'Tutti Frutti' until 1970.
Mughal jewelry
Five centuries ago, India was under the rule and influence of the Mughal dynasty. The Mughal royalty were connoisseurs of architecture, arts, food, clothing and of course, jewelry. During the Mughal rule, jewelry-making was given utmost importance. This art gave birth to unique jewelry pieces studded with chunky gemstones and enameled with motif designs. Royal family members and people of high rank proudly displayed such jewelry all over their bodies, from jeweled turbans and head-jewelry to thick-set toe rings. The Mughal emperors wore silk turbans sequined with decorative, drooping feather-like ornaments. These turban ornaments are cast in enameled gold and are augmented with precious gemstones and pearls. Such head jewelry was made of either gold or silver and decorated with precious gemstones and quality beads.
Note: “En-Tremblant”, is a French term – meaning “to tremble”. it was first used to describe 18th and 19th-century jewelry where parts of the diamonds set pieces were attached to a trembler (a material that acts as a spring such as a thin metal wire) to create movement in the jewel when worn. brooches mounted in this way were particularly effective in reflecting the scintillating fire of candlelight.
Collateral: It is accompanied by the original presentation jewelry fitted box.
Condition: The overall condition of this piece is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. All gemstones, are secured in the settings. This brooch has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P112722AENN/.3954
