MARCUS & CO. 1920 Art-Deco Cufflinks In 18Kt Gold With Calibre Cut Gemstones
An art-deco cufflinks attributed to Marcus & Co.
This is a fabulous pair of antique cufflinks created in New York City and attributed to the iconic jewelry designers and makers of Marcus & Co., back in 1920-1925. The pair of cufflinks are quite extravagant and unique since its style, the motifs and the gemstones displayed. The design show an ancient Greek warrior wearing a Corinthian helmet masterfully crafted with geometric patterns in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with polished finish. The entire surfaces are embellished with calibre cut specially carved from natural gemstones, such; calibrated rose cuts diamonds, green emeralds, vivid red rubies and blue sapphires. They are fitted with flexible chained links and almond shaped toggles. They are an exceptional pieces of art accompanied by an antique presentation jewelry box from the same period.
Country: New York City, United States.
Style: American Art Deco.
Period: 1920-1925.
Diamonds: Mounted in pave settings, with 54 calibrated old European rose cut diamonds, with a combined total weight of about 0.81 carats, white colorless G/H color, SI clarity.
Gemstones: Mounted in millegrain bezel settings, with 60 mixed calibre cut of natural rubies, green emeralds and blue sapphires, with a combined total weight of about 4 carats.
Weight: 10.20 Grams, (6.55 Dwt).
Measurements: 13 mm by 13 mm by 28 mm (0.51 x 0.51 x 1.10 Inches).
Hallmarks: Unmarked and electronically tested for the assay and warranty of the 18kt yellow gold with result as follows, ".750/.999 Au.".
Marcus & Co.
Marcus & Co. was an American jeweler, based in New York City, famous for their high-quality Art Nouveau and Art Deco pieces. Herman Marcus, a jeweler from Germany, founded the company with his son William in 1892. Prior to moving to New York City in 1850, Herman Marcus had worked for Erlenmeyer, a prestigious court jeweler in Dresden. It was in Europe that he discovered enameling techniques which were not common in the US at that time. When he settled in the US it was his knowledge and savoir-faire which won him jobs at Ball, Black & Co. (later Black, Star & Frost), and Tiffany & Co. Marcus & Co. is known for their delicate plique-à-jour enamel pieces in the Art Nouveau style and the diamond jewelry they produced in the 1920s and 30s. In 1900, the firm exhibited beautiful orchid motif brooches, featuring piqué-à-jour enameling, at Paris’s Exposition Universelle. The firm’s designs were of high quality, and are still among the best examples of American Art Nouveau and Arts and Crafts jewelry. They also introduced gems rarely used in jewelry at that time, such as zircons, chrysoberyl, spinel and peridots. The firm merged with Black, Starr & Frost in 1962.
Collateral: These cufflinks are accompanied by an antique presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of these cufflinks are excellent. Beside the little normal wear there is no damage to the gold. The 114 gemstones are secured in the settings. This pair were carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and the authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P022126SOEN/.2451
