-MARCUS & CO. 1910 Edwardian Brooch In Platinum With 3.12 Ctw In Diamonds & Emeralds
An Edwardian brooch designed by Marcus & Co.
Fabulous antique brooch created during the Edwardian period in New York city, by the iconic jewelry makers of Marcus & Co., back in the 1910-1915. This beautiful, elegant brooch has been crafted in solid .900/.999 platinum and is decorated with millegrain patterns. It is embellished with a great assortment of forty natural earth mined gemstones such: white colorless diamonds and vivid green Colombian emeralds. The brooch is fitted at the reverse with a concealed hinged pin bar with a mechanical swivel lock. The quality, the craftmanship and the selection of the gemstones are exceptional and stand up in this brooch.
Diamonds: Mount in flat-flush settings, with 24 calibrated European round cut diamonds, 1.52 carats, white-colorless F color, VS-2 clarity.
Emeralds: Mounted in channel settings, with 16 French calibre cut of natural vivid green translucent Colombian emeralds, with a combined weight of about 1.60 carats.
Colombian Emeralds
The sixteen calibrated emeralds displayed in this brooch, are from the Muzo region in Colombia, they have great green color saturation, are vivid green and translucent with no inclusions. Muzo is a town and municipality in the western Bocaya province, part of the department of Bocaya, Colombia. It is widely known as the world capital of emeralds for the mines containing the world's highest quality gems of this type.
Birthstone: Diamonds for the month of April and emeralds for May.
Weight: 7.65 Grams, (4.90 Dwt).
Measurements: 45 mm by 27 mm (1.77 x 1.06 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark and signed in full, "MARCUS & CO.".
Marcus & Co.
Marcus & Co. was an American jeweler, based in New York City, famous for their high-quality Art Nouveau and Art Deco pieces. Herman Marcus, a jeweler from Germany, founded the company with his son William in 1892. Prior to moving to New York City in 1850, Herman Marcus had worked for Ellemeyer, a prestigious court jeweler in Dresden. It was in Europe that he discovered enameling techniques which were not common in the US at that time. When he settled in the US it was his knowledge and savoir-faire which won him jobs at Ball, Black & Co. (later Black, Star & Frost), and Tiffany & Co.
Marcus & Co. is known for their delicate plique-à-jour enamel pieces in the Art Nouveau style and the diamond jewelry they produced in the 1920s and 30s. They also introduced gems rarely used in jewelry at that time, such as zircons, chrysoberyl's, spinel and peridots. The firm merged with Black, Starr & Frost in 1962.
Edwardian Period
This era like the Georgian and Victorian eras before it, derives its name from the reign of the English King, Edward VII (1901-1910). Edwardian jewelry is known for representing femininity while incorporating a lot of the color white. Think diamonds, pearls and white metals like platinum and white gold. Diamonds often had an Old Mine or European cut and sapphires were a popular choice for a pop of color. They tended to be made from platinum and diamonds – the more, the merrier – and used fashionable, intricate techniques such as filigree and millegrain. Edwardian rings are works of art and best worn alone or alongside a simple wedding band. Millegraining, a new decorative technique made possible by the use of platinum, is featured often on Edwardian jewelry. Its border of delicate balls and ridges surrounding a gemstone or on the knife sharp edges of a design served to give jewelry a softer, lighter look.
Note: Millegrain is a jewelry technique which refers to the textural effect of a close-set line of metal beads that are typically used as a border on the edges or bezels of jewelry
Collateral: This brooch is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this brooch is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the platinum. The 40 gemstones are secured in their settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and the authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P061924MENM/.2206
