FUSET & GRAU 1930 Barcelona Noucentisme Enameled Bracelet In Sterling & Gold
An aesthetic Noucentisme bracelet designed by Fuset & Grau.
This is a fabulous aesthetic bracelet, created in Barcelona Spain by the renowned jewelers and designers of Fuset & Grau, back in the 1930. The amazing Catalonian bracelet has been crafted in solid sterling silver with accents in 18 karats yellow gold and embellished with applications of greens, purples and blues glass enamels. Clearly the bracelet belongs to the Catalan artistic movement called Noucentista and shows us four main panels, two of them decorated with two slightly different magical beasts of an Asian character, which are decorated with carved fangs, and two with geometric floriated motifs, which are decorated with two cabochons carved in corals.
Fuset y Grau
Fuset y Grau was a leading figure of the Modernista movement in jewelry. They shared this reputation with another contemporary jeweler and compatriot: Lluis Masriera. Both were active from the end of the nineteenth century to the beginning of the twentieth and both had their workshops in Barcelona. Fuset y Grau was one of the leading artisanal houses of its time. His excellence was rewarded at the International Exhibition of Decorative Arts in Paris, where he was invited to exhibit his creations in 1925. Fuset y Grau and Lluis Masriera shared a strong taste for medieval-inspired themes combined with the natural plant and floral motifs so characteristic of the Art Nouveau movement. Fuset y Grau’s medieval portraits of women with long flowing hair, engraved on ivory, are highly sought after by collectors from all over the world. The Spanish house is also distinguished by its way of combining ivory, plique-à-jour enamels, pearls and the use of highlighting with gold engraving. Fuset y Grau is yet to receive the recognition it deserves in the history of jewelry, despite being regularly praised by enlightened amateurs when their jewelry comes up at auction. This Maison, in its rich and diverse creations, is an extraordinarily rare opportunity to rediscover the savoir-faire of a jewelry house so emblematic of the Art Nouveau style. The firm also designed and produced bracelets, pendants and brooches exhibiting other exotic cultural themes, including those of the Aztecs and Assyrians.
Noucentisme
From within the furnace of Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia, grew an art movement in the early 20th century that influenced painters, writers, architects, garden designers — and jewelers. The movement, called Noucentisme, arose as a reaction to an earlier artistic period known as Modernism, which was associated with modernist movements throughout Europe. Noucentisme reflected the Catalan aesthetic -which is, of course, in opposition to Spanish and European influences- and turned to the region’s spiritual roots. Noucentisme has been poetically described as “a term without outlines, almost indefinable,” that pretends to gather “the palpitations of time.” The painter Joaquín Sunyer described the characteristics of Noucentisme in a broad way: Imaginative art, Intellectualism, Art for art’s sake Order, perfection, and beauty. One of the movement’s founders, a lawyer and artist named Eugeni D’Ors, believed that humankind wished to enter a new period of “morality” and that the ideal motto for a new society would be “the work well done.” Noucentisme jewelry is muscular yet sensual, which might also describe Catalan nationalism. Artistically, the form espouses clear geometrical structures, harmony of all the parts and work that demonstrates careful design as opposed to impulsiveness. The materials often used in Noucentisme jewelry are rose cut diamonds, synthetic spinel, marcasite, synthetic sapphires, aquamarine and turquoise; and silver, gold, and combinations of the two, with details of platinum. Enamels are used as highlights. The pieces feature hammered surfaces with spirals and stepped figures. Rectangular forms are preferred to ovals. Famous Noucentisme artists were writers -especially of poetry- architects, sculptors, and painters, such; Ramón Sunyer i Clará, (1869-1963), Jaume Mercadé i Queralt, (1887-1967), Manolo Hugué, (1872-1945) and for this bracelet the jewelers Fuset y Grau. (Sharon Arts & Jewelry with thanks).
Weight: 76.60 Grams, (49.15 Dwt).
Size: 7.75 Inches, (19.7 Cm).
Measurements: The main links are 29 mm by 35 mm (1.14 x 1.38 Inches).
Hallmarks: Unsigned. Electronically tested for silver and gold.
References: For a Spanish bracelet of similar form with Assyrian theme, see lot 243 from the Sotheby's sale in New York on September 28, 2010, which closed at $80,500.
Collateral: This bracelet is accompanied by designer fitted presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this Fuset & Grau bracelet is excellent. Besides the little normal wear, there is no damage to the silver. All parts are secured in their settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: B111524ENNM/2.270
