-French Art Nouveau 1890 Plique à Jour Enameled Pendant Brooch In 18Kt Gold With Pearl
Art Nouveau Plique à jour pendant brooch.
A exceptional piece, created during the Art Nouveau period, back in the 1890. Surely It was crafted in Paris France with the difficult enameling technique of the Plique à Jour over yellow gold of 18 karats with satin finish. The portrait cameo of Flora is decorated with applications of multicolor hot enamel. Fitted at the reverse with a double hinged stem pin bar and a security hook (Removable) to wear as a brooch and two rings to fit a thin chain to wear as a pendant.
The work in the section of the Plique à Jour is magnificent, with a beautiful workmanship and attention to detail that really make this piece stand out. It is definitely a piece of great artistic value that brings together all the elements of the art nouveau style. This would be a great addition to a jewelry collection from this period.
Diamond: Mount in the hanging part in a platinum bezel setting, with 1 European rose cut diamond of 0.03 carats, white colorless F/G color, VS/SI clarity.
Pearl: Accented at the end hanging, with 1 semi oval white pearl of 5 mm by 6 mm.
Weight: 16.50 Grams, (10.58 Dwt).
Measurements: 70 mm by 34 mm (2.76 x 1.34 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with the French eagle's head mark for the assay and warranty of the gold. No maker's marks and was tested for 18 karats gold.
French Art Nouveau
The Art Nouveau or new art jewelry was created in France between about 1890 and 1915, coming on the heels of the “overwrought” designs of the Victorian era (which ended with Queen Victoria's death in 1901) and creating a striking contrast to the mainstream Edwardian designs of that time. While jewelry with a similar aesthetic was being made in other countries during the same time period--for example, Jugendstil in Germany and Austria--true Art Nouveau jewelry is decidedly extended in France. It was a short-lived period in jewelry design, lasting only about 15 years, because of the onset of World War I and because the pieces were so over-the-top that people quickly lost interest in them. Characterized by lavish and organic ornamentation, the Art Nouveau movement blossomed in Vienna at the turn of the 20th Century, with influential Austrians architects Otto Wagner and Adolf Loos making significant architectural contributions that helped shape the city's skyline as we see it today. Rene Lalique, was the most celebrated art nouveau designer, championed jewelry designer.
Plique à Jour
Is taken from the French is "letting in daylight". Is a very difficult vitreous enameling technique where the enamel is applied in cells, similar to cloisonné, but with no backing in the final product, so light can shine through the transparent or translucent enamel. It is in effect a miniature version of stained-glass and is considered very challenging technically: high time consumption (up to 4 months per item), with a high failure rate. The technique is similar to that of cloisonné, but using a temporary backing that after firing is dissolved by acid or rubbed away. A different technique relies solely on surface tension, for smaller areas. In Japan the technique is known as shotai-jippo (shotai shippo), and is found from the 19th century on.
Literature: Cameos Old & New, 4th Edition. Anna M. Miller. 2009. Cameo Appearances. James David Draper. The Metropolitan Museum of Art. 2008 Portrait Jewels-Opulence & Intimacy from the Medici to the Romanovs. by Diana Scarisbrick. 2011. Antique Cameos in the Hermitage Collection. O. Neverov. Aurora Art Publishers. Carving Shells and Cameos. Carson Ritchie. 1970. Engraved Gems: From antiquity to the present Van Den Berken. 2018. For similar pieces pictured.
Collateral: It is accompanied by the original antique presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this piece is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. All gemstones and the enameled parts are secured in the settings. This brooch has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P081023ASEM/.3966
