-Egyptian Revival 1880 Round Enameled Queen Brooch In 18Kt Gold With Diamond

Victorian Etruscan revival queen brooch.

Gorgeous antique medallion-brooch type, created in Italy in the middle of the 19th century, circa 1880. This exceptional piece has been made up with concave shape, in the Etruscan-Egyptian revival style. The brooch has been carefully crafted in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with polished and textured finishes and is fitted at the reverse with a hinged pin bar and a hook. The medallion is embellished with the inlaid portrait of an ancient Egyptian queen, dressed in full with very colorful rich robes and is crowned with a Nemes, which is accented with a rose cut diamond. The queen is fully decorated with the difficult polychrome enamel technique, called Peinture sur émail. The craftmanship is exceptionally well done and surely this will be a one-of-a-kind conversation piece.

Peinture sur émail technique

Peinture sur émail is a French type of painting with enamels. It was developed at the end of the 15th century in Limoges, France. In this technique, a slightly convex, metal plate is covered with a fondant of uniform color which was fired to produce a vitreous base for the drawing. On this, the artist starts applying color after color in thin layers onto the base color with a paintbrush. It is vital that one starts with the colors of the highest flowing temperature to avoid the diffusing of colors at a later stage. Between every step, the intermediate depiction needed to be fired in the oven to fixate the colors, sometimes up to 20 rounds of heating are needed for the final result. In this manner, one was able to rival the oil painters of the day and artists such as Leonard Limousin were in high regard, often even employed by the patrons of the arts. Needless to say, that this type of enameling was no longer in the realm of goldsmiths but belonged to those with exceptional drawing skills. At the end of the 16th century the abundance of workshops that produced these artifacts – these could be a meter high – created a decline in craftsmanship which is usually associated with popular cultures. Like Castellani rescued the micro mosaics from general decline by giving it a new impulse so did Jean Toutin from Blois, France give a new incentive to painted enamel in the early 17th century by introducing miniature paintings on enamel of high quality. In Geneva, Switzerland, there was a culture of painting enamels from the late 15th century as well, but the industry only really started to flourish mid-17th century. They specialized in portraits as in scenery images which soon attracted the attention of customers from all over Europe and beyond. Famous Genevan names of the day were Jean Petitot, Jean Etienne Liotard and various members of the Huaud family. Their products remained fashionable well into the 19th century until the application of photography, which they could not rival. Around the same period, ca. 1840 the Genevan enamellers started producing jewelry in the neo-renaissance taste. These were however of a lower quality than their counterparts made abroad by master's as Giuliano. (From Lang with thanks)

Egyptian Revival Jewelry

For centuries, Ancient Egypt has held the fascination of the public and continues to inspire artists and designers alike. Between the 1860 and 1890, ancient cities were discovered, such as Troy, Pompeii and Alexandria. Archaeological excavations in Egypt, Greece and Rome, discovered artistic pieces of these ancient cultures. These fabulous discoveries, stimulated cultural trips to these countries, popularly called "grand tour". Being the case that the enthusiast visitors bring back small objects, like souvenirs to be assembled into jewelry. The starting point of these trips were in the cities of Rome and Venice.

Diamonds: Mount in A flush setting, with 1 European rose cut diamond, 0.10 carat, white colorless F/G color, VS/SI clarity.

Weight: 2.95 Grams, (1.89 Dwt).

Measurements: Diameter of 25.3 mm (1.01 Inches) and a height of 5 mm.

Hallmarks: Unmarked as usual but electronically tested for 18 karats gold, (.750/.999 Au).

Collateral: This brooch is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.

Condition: The overall condition of this brooch is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. All gemstones are secured in the settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.

INVENTORY REF: P052924CNMK/.0709