ERNEST PIERRET 1880 Etruscan Micro Mosaic Pendant Brooch In 18Kt Gold & Sardonyx

An Etruscan revival pendant brooch designed by Ernesto Pierret (1824-1898).

This is an exceptional and extremely rare pendant-brooch created in Roma Italy by the master jeweler Ernest Pierret. This fabulous piece of jewelry has been masterfully crafted around the 1880 with Etruscan revival patterns in textured yellow gold of 18 karats. The frame is decorated with twelve classic stations made-up with white micro-mosaics and the center is embellished with an oval frame which is holding a sardonyx cameo carved by G. A. Girardet. The cameo is signed by Giorgio Girardet itself at the right border and carved in black and white sardonyx, depicting the personification of Venus with long hair facing to the left, represented by a beautiful woman raising from the water in draped tunic and holding a trapped snake at her feets. The splendid piece is fitted at the reverse with a removable oval framed glass to display a memento or a picture, a concealed hinge pin bar with a movable lock to wear as a brooch and a hook to wear as a pendant in a chain or necklace.

Ernesto Pierret

Ernesto Pierret was born in Paris in 1824 but moved to Rome as a young man where he trained as a goldsmith.  It has been suggested that he may have been an apprentice or at least spent some time in the workshop of Castellani due to the similarity in style and mastery of technique both firms display.  In 1846 he opened his own shop and worked at building a reputation for his beautifully executed jewelry.  In 1853 Murray’s ‘Handbook to Central Italy and Rome’ describes him as being ‘now one of the first artists in Rome for Etruscan jewelry’.  At this time, he was located at 31 Piazza di Firenze where he remained for many years. However, following his marriage to Virginia Crespi, the daughter of a papal lawyer, he found himself in a position to be able to move to the very heart of the jewelry and artist quarter.  He bought a beautiful Renaissance palazzo at number 20 Piazza di Spagna right by the famous Spanish Steps and moved both his family and his business here.  He made various alterations to the palace including the addition of a fourth floor and a panoramic terrace.  Today it is a national monument and regarded as one of the most important historic buildings in Rome, his name can still be seen above the entrance and it is now called Palazzo Pierret in his honor. Revivalist jewelry remains very popular today and Pierret undoubtedly produced some wonderful examples of the style which are both highly wearable and collectable.

G. A. Girardet

Giorgio Antonio Girardet was born in Rome the 2nd July 1829 to Anthony John, and Clotilde Pochon. He then undertook the art of engraving at Bonfiglio Zaccagnini, engraver of the Mint under Pius IX, and subsequently he began to carve hard stones at the atelier of engravers Antonio Odelli and Tommaso Saulini. The collaboration, started through Odelli, with the famous goldsmiths Castellani was long and fruitful. Among the works commissioned by them, and which are often identifiable because they are marked by the artist’s signature (as well as by the engraving of the double «C» on the bottom layer of the stone). He also had a good reputation as portrait engraver: in 1874 in fact the G. is reported as «graveur de camées, spécialiste de portraits» in via Margutta, n. 53 B. In the cameos iconographic repertoire of G. (signed usually ”G.A Girardet F.”), which belonged to a now limited group of hard stones engravers still active in Rome in the second half of the 19th century, such as Tommaso Saulini, Antonio Odelli , Pietro Girometti, Giovanni Liberotti, Giovanni Dies, Paolo Neri, Carlo Civilotti, are often present, in addition to mythological subjects and motifs taken from the ancient, motifs taken from the works of modern sculptors such as Bertel Thorvaldsen. This beautiful two-layers agate cameo, is signed G.A. GIRARDET.

Country: Rome, Italy.

Period: Late 19th century, circa 1880.

Weight: 32.60 Grams, (20.90 Dwt).

Measurements: 52 mm by 36 mm by 11 mm (2.05 x 1.42 x 0.44 Inches).

Hallmarks: Electronically tested for 18Kt yellow gold as .750/.999 Au. Stamped with the maker's mark and fully signed as follows: for the gold parts PIERRET; for the carved cameo G. A. Girardet.

Ernesto Pierret literature: David Bennett, Daniela Mascetti, Understanding Jewellery, 1989, page 188 for an example of a bracelet of similar design by Ernesto Pierret. Note: A book dated 1869 by John Murray stated that Pierret was one of the “first artists of Rome, second only to Castellani.” Pierret jewelry has stood the test of time as wearable Revivalist pieces. They are highly collectible and garner thousands of dollars, and several of his pieces are on display as part of the collection at The British Museum. As an influential jewelry designer who cared about his clients and his craft, Pierret indeed left his mark in the world of artisan jewelry and in Rome itself. 

G. A. Girardet literature: Parallels: Fondo Castellani, Biblioteca, b. 201/9; Relazione di G.A. Girardet (incisore in pietre dure) letta all'assemblea generale del 25 genn. 1874, Roma 1874; Mostra di Roma nell'Ottocento (catal.), Roma 1932, p. 154; E. Kris, Catalogue of the Milton Weil Collection in the Metropolitan Museum of arts, Wien 1932, n. 21, tav. XXXIX; G. Umani, in Numismatica, IX-XI (1943-45), p. 65; A. Jandolo, Antiquaria, Milano 1947, pp. 190-193; R. Righetti, Incisori di gemme e cammei in Roma, Roma s.d. (ma 1952), pp. 63, 85; L. Pirzio Biroli Stefanelli, Cammei per casa Savoia: i ritratti di G.A. G., in Strenna dei romanisti, LVIII (1997), pp. 509-516; Id., Del cammeo e dell'incisione in pietre dure e tenere nella Roma del XIX secolo, in Arte e artigianato nella Roma di Belli.Atti… Fondazione Marco Besso, Roma 1998, p. 24; L. Forrer, A Biographical Dictionary of medaillists…, II, London 1904, p. 272; VII, ibid. 1923, p. 163; G.C. Bulgari, Argentieri, gemmari e orafi d'Italia, I, 1, Roma 1958, p. 547. Et Alia.

Collateral: This convertible pendant-brooch by Ernest Pierret is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.

Condition: The overall condition of this pendant by Ernest Pierret is excellent. Beside the little normal wear there is no damage to the gold. All parts are secured in the settings. This pendant-brooch was carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.

INVENTORY REF: P110325SMNN/.7836