ÉMILE-DÉSIRÉ PHILIPPE 1870 Egyptian Enameled Bracelet In 18kt Gold & Silver
An Egyptian revival bracelet designed by Émile-Désiré Philippe (1834-1880).
This is a fabulous a extremely rare bracelet created in Paris France at the atelier of the master jewelry maker of Émile-Désiré Philippe, back in the 1870. The magnificent bracelet has been masterfully conceived with intricate Egyptian revival motifs carefully crafted with parts in solid yellow gold of 18 karats and .800/.999 silver, creating a great contrast. The bracelet is fitted with seven linked sections and a concealed push boxed lock made up in solid yellow gold of 14 karats. The bracelet is richly decorated with Egyptians pharaonic figures and multiples hieroglyphics, which are embellished with applications of black, blue, red and green enamels. The bracelet is fully decorated at the reverse with incised details and engravings related to the Egyptians images at the obverse.
Émile-Désiré Philippe
He was a 19th century French jeweler who created interesting pastiches of jewels with Egyptian motifs. He is mentioned in Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary by Hans Nadel Hoffer in the chapter titled Pharaohs, Sphinxes and Pyramids. Nadel Hoffer notes that Philippe was a pupil of Jules Wiese Père, another distinguished French jeweler known for his extraordinary work in archaeological revival styles. At the Paris Exposition Universelle of 1878, Philippe exhibited an entire parure which he then gifted that same year to the Musée des Arts Decoratifs. The bracelet offered here is a rare example by Philippe mounted in gold. The various elements are each symbol commonly found in ancient Egyptian religion. French Egyptologist Christiane Zeigler postulated “The jeweler (Philippe) most assuredly would have consulted an Egyptologist and perhaps he himself had even handled pieces of Pharaonic jewelry”. His designs are indeed beautiful, pleasant and good, and appear to have been inspired by a profound understanding of Egyptian art and symbols.
Country: Paris, France.
Period: Egyptian Revival, Grand tour 1870.
Weight: 68.3 Grams, (47.80 Dwt).
Size: 7.25 Inches, (18.42 Cm.).
Measurements: The width is 38 mm, (1.50 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with French marks the maker's mark EP inside a lozenge cartouche associated to E. Philippe, twice with the mark of the eagle for the assay and warranty of the 18Kt yellow gold and signed in full as follows, "E.-PHILIPPE-A PARIS-DEPOSE- .800 14kt 18kt EP".
Literature: Similar jewelry pieces are illustrated in Egyptomania: Egypt in Western Art, 1730-1930, by Jean-Marcel Humbert, Michael Pantazzi and Christiane Ziegler, pages 477-479, no. 323. For another similar example by Philippe, see Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels, New York, April 19, 2016, Lot 218.
Collateral: This bracelet by Émile-Désiré Philippe is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this bracelet by Émile-Désiré Philippe is excellent. Besides the little normal wear there is no damage to the gold. All parts are secured in the settings. This bracelet was carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: B010426RNNS/1.641
