CARTIER 1925 Chinoiserie Enameled Jabot Brooch In Platinum Citrines & Diamonds
An art-deco Chinoiserie Jabot designed by Cartier
This is a magnificent Art Deco jabot-brooch, created in Paris, France, and designed by the iconic French jewelry house of Cartier, dating to the 1920s. Masterfully crafted in a combination of solid platinum and 18-karat yellow gold, this exceptional jewel is rendered in the highly fashionable Chinoiserie style, which was particularly admired during the Art Deco period for its sophisticated interpretation of Asian decorative motifs. The elongated geometric composition is embellished with stylized Asiatic patterns and accented with applications of glossy black enamel, creating a striking contrast against the precious metals. The jabot is further adorned with a beautiful assortment of twelve natural, earth-mined gemstones, comprising European-cut and rose-cut diamonds together with vivid citrines. The combination of geometric design, contrasting enamel, and colorful gemstones gives the piece an especially distinctive and sophisticated appearance. The brooch is fitted with its characteristic twisted push-button mechanism, allowing the retractable pin to be securely pulled out and inserted for wear, a practical and elegant feature characteristic of fine jabot jewelry of the period. Very rare and possessing exceptional visual appeal, this Cartier jabot remains in gorgeous condition and represents a highly desirable collector's piece from the golden age of Art Deco jewelry. It is also noteworthy that other closely related jabot-brooch models were produced for Cartier Paris by the renowned Parisian jewelry workshop of Strauss, Allard & Meyer during the 1920s. Their involvement in the production of exceptional jewels for Cartier places this type of jewel within the distinguished tradition of Parisian high jewelry craftsmanship of the era.
Chinoiserie and Orientalism
The term chinoiserie is from the French word chinois, meaning “Chinese” and refers to European artistic style that reflects the influence of China and is characterized by the use of Chinese designs, asymmetry, whimsical changes in size, the use of lacquered materials and abundant decoration. Chinoiserie entered Europe in about the last quarter of the 17th century and reached its peak in the mid-18th century, when it was assimilated by Rococo.
Country: Paris, France; New York City, USA.
Period: Art Deco, 1925.
Style: Chinoiserie.
Atelier: Cartier by Strauss-Allard et Meyer.
Materials: Platinum, gold, black enamel, citrines and diamonds.
Diamonds: Mount in a pave setting, with 10 calibrated European rose-cuts diamonds, with a total combined weight of about 0.20 carats, white colorless D/E/F color, VS clarity.
Citrines: Mount at the ends, in four-prongs settings, with 2 well matched faceted oval cuts (12 x 10 x 6 mm) of a natural citrines with a combined weight of about 10 carats.
Weight: 7.85 Grams, (5.10 Dwt).
Measurements: 78 mm by 13 mm by 11 mm (3.07 x 0.51 x 0.43 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with French control marks; the mark for the assay and warranty of the 18kt gold and the platinum, the maker's mark Ste PB inside a lozenge cartouche associated to Cartier, the four-digits serial numbers and signed as follow, "CARTIER 7605".
Cartier and Strauss-Allard et Meyer
Strauss, Allard et Meyer, in Place des Vosges, were one of the most successful of the Parisian Art Deco workshops, specializing in luxury vanity cases and boxes, many of which were in the 'chinoiserie style', The offices were located at 25 of the rue Taitbout. The workshop at the 19 of rue Louis-le-Grand & later in 11 place des Vosges, Paris France. Their specialty was Boxes, paper-cutters, lighters and Objects de Vertu. In 1909 Jean Gustave Maurice Allard & Emile Meyer opened the firm, Designing creations for the major Parisian luxury houses such: Cartier, Janesich, Lacloche Frères, Hermes and Boucheron. In 1919: Raphaël Strauss joined the firm. In 1941 Mr. Strauss takes refuge in the US with his shares of the company. In 1949: Allard sold the company to Jean Meyer, Emile’s son. The mark SAM was struck and registered from 1919 to the 1941.
Collateral: This Cartier jabot is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this Cartier jabot is excellent. Besides the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The 12 gemstones are secured in the settings. This jabot was carefully inspected to guarantee the condition & authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P091726AAEN/.2264
