-Cartier 1910 Edwardian Oval Brooch In Platinum With 5.13 Ctw In Diamonds
Belle epoque brooch with diamonds designed by Cartier.
Magnificent piece from the Edwardian and Belle Epoque periods, created by the jewelry house of Cartier, back in the 1910. This exceptional oval brooch is extremely rare because her's condition, the quality and the manufacturing period. This has been carefully crafted in solid platinum and is mounted with a superb selection of natural diamonds. The inside and outsides edges are finished with millegrain patterns and is fitted at the reverse with a hinged horizontal pin bar with a mechanical lock. The craftsmanship is impeccable with great attention to details as we expect from the Cartier Maison.
Diamonds: Mounted in bezel settings, with 4 French squared rhomboid rose cut diamonds, 0.65 carats, white colorless F color, VS-1 clarity,
Diamonds: Mount in a pave setting, with 112 graduated European rose cut diamonds, 4.48 carats, white colorless F color, VS-2 clarity.
Birthstone: Diamonds, for the month of April.
Weight: 6.65 Grams, (4.26 Dwt).
Measurements: 39 mm by 21 mm (1.54 x 0.83 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark, the four digits serial number and signed by engraving in the edge, "CARTIER NY 1405".
History
The move to the rue de la Paix coincided with a period of extraordinary economic growth and affluence in France and the world. Cartier was also growing and expanding and had started to shift their emphasis from retailing to design and manufacture. Although they produced a small number of pieces in the Art Nouveau style, Cartier paid scant attention to the movement. They made their distinguishing mark in pioneering the use of platinum in creating the delicate and graceful Garland style that came to be associated with the Belle Époque. The discovery of the great diamond deposits in South Africa in the late 1860’s engendered the popularity of extravagant diamond jewelry. The technical advances in the manufacturing of platinum enabled designs of great intricacy, strength and flexibility such as found in the spectacular résille designs of Cartier. (See Edwardian Jewelry: 1901-1915). Cartier marked the beginning of the twentieth century by opening branches in London and New York, where their wealthiest and most dedicated clientele resided. The 1902 coronation of Edward VII occasioned a large number of commissions from England’s leading families. Records indicate that Cartier produced twenty-seven tiaras alone for the coronation and the event was instrumental in convincing the firm to seek a permanent presence in London. Indeed, by 1904 they had achieved their first of fifteen royal warrants being appointed official purveyor to the court of King Edward VII. The London branch came to thrive under the tutelage of Alfred’s youngest son, Jacques Cartier, establishing London based design and manufacturing workshops. Opening a Cartier store in New York was a natural progression as many of America’s wealthiest families and business magnates had been traveling to Paris for some time to purchase their jewels from Cartier. By 1906 Alfred had largely retired and Louis and his brother Pierre operated the Cartier business jointly. One of their first major decisions was to establish a New York presence and workshop in 1909 under the skilled direction of Pierre. Indicative of his business skills, Pierre famously secured Cartier’s present location, an elegant Beaux-Arts mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue, from industrialist Morton F. Plant in 1917. The building changed hands in exchange for $100 and a double strand of natural pearls, admired by Plant’s wife and valued at one million dollars, the asking price for the mansion. While the Fifth Avenue location remains priceless to the firm, when the pearls came up for auction in 1957, they fetched a mere $170,000. (From Langs with thanks).
Edwardian Jewelry Period was during the King Edward VII, after whom this period of jewelry history is named, reigned over England for only nine years, yet the style of jewelry known as “Edwardian” was created roughly between 1890 and 1920. Edwardian-era rings tend to be larger, opulent pieces, and stacked ring designs were popular. The metal surfaces of the rings were often diamond-encrusted for additional shimmer. Each of these rings is a work of art, showcasing a bygone era of grace, elegance and the royalty the Edwardian era is named for.
Note: Millegrain is a jewelry technique which refers to the textural effect of a close-set line of metal beads that are typically used as a border on the edges or bezels of jewelry.
Note: A very interesting fact about this piece is the serial number of only four digits. This number is relatively low and denotes that this piece is of very early manufacture.
Collateral: This brooch is accompanied by the original designer's presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this brooch is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the platinum. All diamonds are secured in the settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P020123OENM/.1918
