BURLE MARX 1970 Forma Livre Cocktail Ring In 18Kt Gold With Tourmaline

Cocktail ring designed by Haroldo Burle Marx.

This is a beautiful and sculptural cocktail ring, created in Brazil with concretism art parameters by the artist jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx, back in the 1970. The artistic rare ring is gorgeous and has been carefully crafted with free forms shapes in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with a delicate Florentine finish. It is mount on top with a rare natural blue-green tourmaline cut in the iconic forma livre shape.

Note: We are offering the matching pair of earrings in suite to this ring.

Tourmaline: Mount on top in a bezel setting, with 1 fancy Forma Livre cabochon cut (23 x 14 x 10 mm) carved from a natural Brazilian blue-green tourmaline.

Birthstone: Tourmaline for the month of October.

 Weight: 18.40 Grams, (11.80 Dwt).

Size: 5 and may be sized on special request.

Measurements: 25.2 mm by 20 mm (1.0 x 0.79 Inches) and raise 16 mm over the finger.

Hallmarks Stamped with the designer's mark, the goldsmith maker's mark, the mark for the assay of the 18KT gold and signed in full, "BURLE MARX BRAZIL .750".

Haroldo Burle Marx

He born in Rio de Janeiro in 1911 and was a designer, lapidary and gemologist than ran a successful workshop and gallery in Rio de Janeiro from the 1930 through the 1980. His exceptional work was a source of pride for Brazil. When dignitaries visited the country, the government often commissioned Haroldo to create pieces to present to them. Japan’s Empress Nagako, for one example, received an opal necklace when she visited the country. Queen Margrethe of Denmark wore a Burle Marx demi suite of an aquamarine ring and brooch on her wedding trip in 1966. Burle Marx did pioneer new looks and his influence can be seen in Brazilian jewelry designer’s work to this day. When his pieces were set with gems designed by his brother Roberto the combination was something truly special. The gems Roberto conceived were in a style called the Forma Livre Cut or free form cut. The unusual shapes transform Brazilian semiprecious gems into architectural elements in the jewels. The jewelry works of Roberto Burle Marx and Haroldo Burle Marx, in different ways, are iconic representations of Brazil's innovative fine jewelry designing between the 1950 and 1980, indeed, of Brazilian modernism art movement.

This rare piece have an obvious collaboration between three big names of the Brazilian arts; Haroldo Burle Marx (1911-1991) the designer and jeweler with galleries in brazil and Washington DC., Bruno Guidi the master chief goldsmith and lead designer of Burle Marx and finally Roberto Burle Marx (1909-1994), Haroldo's brother, designer and a landscape architect.

The Concrete Art

This term, was coined in 1930 by Theo Van Doesburg in his manifesto "Concrete Art", written in response to the formation of the association "Cercle et Carré". The document was signed by Hélion, Carlsund, Tutundjian and Wantz. When Van Doesburg died in 1931, his ideas were taken up at the end of the 1930s by two Swiss artists, Max Bill and Jean Arp, who published several works and held important exhibitions of painting, sculpture and applied arts. The denomination "concrete" or "concretism" is assumed in Switzerland in the post-war period by artists working in the current of geometric abstraction. The relationship between abstraction and concrete art is evident in the exhibition at the René Drouin Gallery in Paris in 1945, since it is the first important exhibition of abstract art, and its title was precisely “Art Concret”. In this art all kinds of illusionism are excluded; the work and the elements of which it consists are presented strictly for what they are, without virtual qualities. Materials do not simulate anything other than themselves. The slogan “real materials, real space” is often used in relation to this art form.

Provenance: Purchased at H. Burle Marx jewelry store in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. A private collection in Florida, USA. 

Collateral: This ring is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.

Condition: The overall condition of this ring is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The tourmaline is secured in the setting. This ring has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and the authenticity.

INVENTORY REF: R090424MINS/.4423