Art Nouveau 1880-1900 Attr To Tiffany Enameled Red Orchid Brooch In 18Kt Gold & Platinum With 2.82 Cts In Diamonds

Enameled Art Nouveau Red orchid brooch attributed to Tiffany & Co.

Fabulous and gorgeous piece created in Europe probably France, during the Art-Nouveau period, circa 1880-1900. It was carefully crafted, with stunning details in the shape of a Red Orchid flower extending undulating petals in solid yellow gold of 18 karats, with white platinum parts for the diamonds settings. It is suited at the reverse, with a hinged element of a double pin bars to wear as a brooch, this can be also used as a pendant.

The petals and central pistils are treated with patterns incised in the metal and decorated, with applications of hot enamel, with gradations of red, opal and light white, creating a transparency that looks like a real flower. It is definitely a phenomenal enameling job done by a master jeweler.

Mounted in a four-prongs and pave settings, with 56 European round brilliant cut diamonds, with a combined weight of 2.82 carats, H/I color, VS/SI clarity.

Has a total weight of 47.5 Grams and a measures of 79 mm by 54 mm (3.12 x 2.15 Inches).

Stamped, with unidentified maker's mark and the gold assay hallmark.

Goldsmiths and designers of the late 19th century went to great lengths to find rare and expensive species to supply American orchid collectors. In an effort to create realistic replicas for an educated clientele, specimens were imported from around the world, including India, Brazil, Indonesia and Burma.

Literature: Suzanne Tennenbaum and Janet Zapata, Jeweled Garden: A Colorful History of Gems, Jewels, and Nature, The Vendome Press, New York, 2006, for similar examples.

Note: In the early 1870s, Edward C. Moore, Tiffany's head designer, established one of America's first design schools. It was here that he cultivated in his students an interest in rare and exotic flowers, such as orchids. One of his most talented botanical artists was Paulding Farnham, who at the age of 29 won the gold medal at the 1889 Paris Exposition Universelle for his series of 24 enamel and gem-set orchid jewels in the Tiffany display. Following this success, he exhibited forty orchid brooches at their New York store in 1890.

It is in perfect condition, with intact enamel and all the original gemstones.

INVENTORY REF: P0000ACEN/1.141