PAUL FLATO 1940 Shoe Brooch In 18Kt Gold, Platinum, Diamonds, Sapphires & Rubies

A brooch designed by Paul Flato.

This is a fabulous brooch-clip created during the late American art-deco period by the famous jewelry designer Paul Flato, back in the 1935-1940. This colorful elegant brooch has been masterfully crafted in the shape of a shoe in solid yellow gold of 18 karats and parts in .800/.999 platinum with high polished finish. It is embellished with an exceptional arrange of natural earth mined gemstones, such European diamonds, Burmese rubies and Ceylon sapphires. The brooch is fitted at the reverse with a hinged double pins bar for safety. Several variants are known of this model, like the ones as follows

Diamonds: Mount in pave settings, with 30 calibrated European round brilliant cut diamonds, 0.62 carats, white colorless E/F color, VS-1 clarity.

Rubies: Mount in flush settings with 27 calibrated rounds faceted cut vivid red Burmese rubies with a total weight of about 1.62 carats.

Sapphires: Mount in flush settings with 23 calibrated round faceted cut of vivid blue Ceylon sapphires with a total weight of about 1.43 carats.

Weight: 10.6 Grams, (6.80 Dwt).

Measurements: 42 mm by 17 mm (1.65 x 0.67 Inches).

Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark, the mark for the assay and warranty of the 18kt gold and the platinum, the French import marks of the eagle and twice with the owl and signed, "PAUL FLATO".

Paul Edmund Flato 

Paul Flato is one of the more fascinating characters in American jewelry history. He designed jewelry that were as inventive and flamboyant as their creator. Catering to the tastes and whims of the very wealthy and oriented to the stars of Hollywood. Pau Flato flourished at a time when high society dressed to impress and had no qualms about spending large sums on jewelry adornments. He was born on September 1, 1900. He was an American jeweler, based in New York City from the 1920's to the early 1940's. Considered the first celebrity jeweler, he was well known for important jewelry, and as an early proponent of whimsical pieces. His long list of movie star clients included Greta Garbo, Mae West, Rita Hayworth, Joan Crawford, Doris Duke, Ginger Rogers, Carmen Miranda, Marlene Dietrich, Katharine Hepburn, and Gloria Vanderbilt—many of whom wore his pieces on screen. Soon after moving to New York, he opened his own upstairs jewelry shop at One East 57th Street, at the corner of 5th Avenue in Manhattan. Several years later, Tiffany & Co. opened its flagship store directly across the street. Before long, Paul Flato was "one of the best-known jewelers in New York", the only one whose "highly imaginative work (was) on a par with European jewelers." He employed several designers, including future luminaries David Webb, George W. Headley and Count Fulco di Verdura. He was reportedly Harry Winston's largest client when Winston was strictly a wholesale dealer. In 1937, he opened a second store on Sunset Boulevard in Beverly Hills, CA, across from the popular Trocadero nightclub, furthering his relationships with celebrity clientele

Literature: Paul Flato Jeweler of The Stars, Elizabeth Irvine Bray. The Collectors Group 2010, Pages-65-70, for similar pieces from the same period.

Collateral: This Paul Flato brooch is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.

Condition: The overall condition of this Paul Flato brooch is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the platinum. The gemstones are secured in the settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.

INVENTORY REF: P030725TSEA/.2548