-Cartier 1930 Art Deco Enameled Jabot In 18kt Gold With Diamonds And Turquoises

A jabot pin designed by Cartier.

Fantastic jabot brooch, created during the art deco period by the jewelry house of Cartier, back in the 1930. This rare colorful piece has been crafted in two parts, made up in solid yellow and white gold of 18 karats with high polished finish. It is embellished with millegrain settings, applications of black enamel and natural earth mined gemstones. Fitted with a pin bar with a push and screwed security lock.

Diamonds: Mounted in millegrain settings, with 4 European rose cut diamonds, 0.30 carats, white colorless F color, VS-2 clarity.

Turquoises: Mounted in bezel settings, with 2 oval cabochon cut (13 x 16.5 x 6.5 mm) carved from natural blue turquoises, with 17.54 carats.

Birthstone: Turquoise for the month of December.

Weight: 8.95 Grams, (5.38 Dwt).

Measurements: 80 mm by 16 mm (3.15 x 0.63 Inches).

Hallmarks Stamped with the maker's mark, the mark for the assay of the gold, the serial numbers and signed, "CARTIER 23188.01".

Cartier

The move to the rue de la Paix coincided with a period of extraordinary economic growth and affluence in France and the world. Cartier was also growing and expanding and had started to shift their emphasis from retailing to design and manufacture. Although they produced a small number of pieces in the Art Nouveau style, Cartier paid scant attention to the movement. They made their distinguishing mark in pioneering the use of platinum in creating the delicate and graceful Garland style that came to be associated with the Belle Époque. The discovery of the great diamond deposits in South Africa in the late 1860’s engendered the popularity of extravagant diamond jewelry. The technical advances in the manufacturing of platinum enabled designs of great intricacy, strength and flexibility such as found in the spectacular résille designs of Cartier. (See Edwardian Jewelry: 1901-1915). Cartier marked the beginning of the twentieth century by opening branches in London and New York, where their wealthiest and most dedicated clientele resided. The 1902 coronation of Edward VII occasioned a large number of commissions from England’s leading families. Records indicate that Cartier produced twenty-seven tiaras alone for the coronation and the event was instrumental in convincing the firm to seek a permanent presence in London. Indeed, by 1904 they had achieved their first of fifteen royal warrants being appointed official purveyor to the court of King Edward VII. The London branch came to thrive under the tutelage of Alfred’s youngest son, Jacques Cartier, establishing London based design and manufacturing workshops. Opening a Cartier store in New York was a natural progression as many of America’s wealthiest families and business magnates had been traveling to Paris for some time to purchase their jewels from Cartier. By 1906 Alfred had largely retired and Louis and his brother Pierre operated the Cartier business jointly. One of their first major decisions was to establish a New York presence and workshop in 1909 under the skilled direction of Pierre. Indicative of his business skills, Pierre famously secured Cartier’s present location, an elegant Beaux-Arts mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue, from industrialist Morton F. Plant in 1917. The building changed hands in exchange for $100 and a double strand of natural pearls, admired by Plant’s wife and valued at one million dollars, the asking price for the mansion. While the Fifth Avenue location remains priceless to the firm, when the pearls came up for auction in 1957, they fetched a mere $170,000. (From Lang's with thanks).

Millegrain 

This is a jewelry technique which refers to the textural effect of a close-set line of metal beads that are typically used as a border on the edges or bezels of jewelry.

Collateral: It is accompanied by the designer's presentation jewelry pouch.

Condition: The overall condition of this jabot is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. All gemstones are secured in the settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and the authenticity.

INVENTORY REF: P113023SENM/.2151