AUSTRIAN HUNGARIAN 1915 Enameled Beetle Watch Ring In 18Kt Gold & Diamonds
A rare Austrian-Hungarian watch ring.
This is an extremely rare and unusual clock-ring, created in the early 20th century during the Austrian-Hungarian empire period, circa 1915. The ring has been carefully crafted in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with parts in silver for the settings of the diamonds. Designed as a beetle scarab and decorated with engraved textured and chiseled patterns. Parts of the beetle, such the wings, body and head are embellished with engine turned guilloche which is topped with green, blue and red glass enamels. The ring is mounted in millegrain settings with twenty earth mined natural gemstones, such; rose cuts diamonds and faceted rubies.
As for the clock on this beetle, it is a very ingenious one since its wings can be opened by means of hinges and a mechanical pusher to see the time. For the mechanism and operation of the clock winding, one of the sides is lifted and can be rotated for winding. When you wear this wonderful watch-ring it will stand out on your hand and will be the topic of a great conversation.
Movement: Swiss, mechanical hand winding with 17 jewels.
Diamonds: Mount in flush settings, with 20 old European rose cut diamonds, with a total weight of about 0.90 carats.
Rubies: The eyes are mount in bezel settings, with 2 round faceted cut of red rubies, 0.04 carats.
Weight: 26.95 Grams, (17.28 Dwt).
Size: 7.5 and can be sized on special request.
Measurements: 30 mm by 26 mm (1.18 x 1.02 Inches) and raise 12 mm over the finger.
Hallmarks: Unmarked, electrically tested for 18 karats gold.
Austro-Hungarian Empire History
The Austro-Hungarian Empire was created in 1867 out of the Austrian Empire and the Kingdom of Hungary. It was to last until 1918. It was the second largest European country after Russia and was an important technological adopter. Increasing industrialization saw a growth in a middle class based in the cities. There was a demand for jewellery and jewelers looked back in history for inspiration. One source of inspiration was the Renaissance and one 16th century artist who was particularly influential was Hans Holbein. Jewelers in these two countries produced ornate pieces of jewelry in the form of large pendants covered with enamel, often white enamel decorated with black dots, coloured gemstones and pearls set in gold, silver or silver gilt. Some of these pieces are hallmarked, many are not. The quality can vary a lot but always easy to be identified.
Guilloché
This term is used in fine jewelry to enhance the appearance of brooches, rings and pendants. Guilloché enamel refers to metal pieces that have been given the Guilloché treatment and then covered with a translucent layer of enamel, giving the geometric patterns underneath the enamel a colorful hue. The word originates from France dating back to the 18th century when a French engineer named Guillot invented a tool / turning machine - although this fact and his existence are often debated.
Millegrain
This is a jewelry technique which refers to the textural effect of a close-set line of metal beads that are typically used as a border on the edges or bezels of jewelry
Collateral: This clock ring is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this ring is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The 20 gemstones, the enamels and all parts are secured in the settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: R091224RENM/.6478
