ANNA RINGE For FABERGE 1908 Large Enameled Ladybug Brooch 14Kt Gold & Diamonds

An enameled ladybug designed by Anna Ringe (1840–1912) for Faberge.

This is a fabulous antique brooch created in Moscow Russia during the imperial period, circa 1908. This belle epoque brooch has been designed with Edwardian patterns at the workshop of Fabergé’s work-master in Saint Petersburg Anna Ringe (active 1894-1912) and retailed by Fabergé at their branches. The brooch was designed in the shape of a three-dimensional ladybug with six gracious legs and made up with several parts crafted in solid yellow gold of 14 karats and delicate curvilinear silver frames. The ladybug is mounted on top with a very nice assortment of forty-four well selected European rose-cuts diamonds and embellished with engine turned guilloche panels, which are topped with iridescent red and black glass enamels. The brooch is fitted at the reverse with a concealed hinged horizontal pin bar and a security safety hook.

Anna Karlovna Ringe 

She was a significant female work master for Fabergé active between 1894-1912. She inheriting her husband Philip Theodor Ringe workshop in St. Petersburg after his death, continuing their specialized production of enameled gold and silver items for the famed jewelry house until her own passing, marked by her initials "AR". She maintained a vital role as a supplier, showcasing that women played key roles in the intricate craft of the House of Fabergé. Anna Ringe is notable as one of the few identified female work masters contributing directly to the iconic Fabergé brand, demonstrating skill and business acumen in a male-dominated field, maintaining the high standards of craftsmanship associated with the name. 

Country: St. Petersburg, Moscow, Imperial Russia.

Period: Edwardian, belle epoque 1895-1905.

Designer: Anna Ringe.

Retailer: Faberge, St. Petersburg or Moscow branch.

Diamonds: Mount in flush Mille-grain and bezel settings, with an assortment of 44 sparkling calibrated European rose cut diamonds, with a total combined weight of about 3.08 carats, F/G/H color, SI/VS clarity.

Weight: 19.5 Grams, (12.54 Dwt).

Measurements: 33 mm by 26 mm by 4 mm (1.30 x 1.02 x 0.16 Inches).

Hallmarks: Stamped with Imperial Russian marks, the pre-1899 mark of helmeted Athena facing to right with the letter associated for the city of St. Petersburg, the maker's mark AR inside an oval cartouche associated to Anna Ringe, the zolotnik standard mark 56 for the assay and warranty of the .583/.999 gold, remains of unidentified numbers and signed as follows, "AR 56".

Zolotnik

The zolotnik was also used to measure fineness of precious metals (gold, silver, platinum). In this case, the ratio zolotnik/font was meant, so one zolotnik meant 1⁄96. For example, 14-karat (58.33%) gold was named "56-zolotnik gold" in Russia.

Guilloché 

This term is used in fine jewelry to enhance the appearance of brooches, rings and pendants. Guilloché enamel refers to metal pieces that have been given the Guilloché treatment and then covered with a translucent layer of enamel, giving the geometric patterns underneath the enamel a colorful hue.

Millegrain 

This is a jewelry technique which refers to the textural effect of a close-set line of metal beads that are typically used as a border on the edges or bezels of jewelry.

Literature: Tillander-Godenhielm, Ulla. Jewels from Imperial St. Petersburg, London: Unicorn Press Ltd. 2012. Weir-de La Rochefoucauld, Juliet. Women Jewellery Designers, Suffolk, UK: ACC Art Books, 2017.

Collateral: This Fabergé / Anna Ringe brooch is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.

Collateral: This Fabergé / Anna Ringe brooch is accompanied by a certificate appraisal prepared by a GIA certified gemologist stating all the characteristics of this piece of jewelry, the exact description of the gemstones and the today's market replacement value.

Condition: The overall condition of this Fabergé / Anna Ring brooch is excellent. Besides the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The 44 diamonds and the enamel are secured in the settings. This brooch was carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.

INVENTORY REF: P012226EENT/.3656