CARTIER 1920 Art Deco Platinum Enameled Pendant-Lorgnette With Diamonds & Onyx
An art deco pendant-lorgnette designed by Cartier.
This is an absolutely fabulous convertible pendant-lorgnette, created during the art deco period by the French jewelry house of Cartier, back in the 1920. This rare piece has been carefully crafted with meticulous geometric skyscraper patterns in solid .900/.999 platinum with polished finish and masterful applications of black hard enamel. The frontal section is embellished with a fantastic assortment of one-hundred-eight earth mined natural gemstones, such; European-cut white colorless diamonds and eleven graduated polished cabochons of black onyx. The craftsmanship of this piece is impeccable and we attributed to the Oscar Heyman Brothers in New York City. The pendant is fitted with concealed mechanisms, such; security double push-lock folding spring, a triple tension hinges and a movable hinged loop ring on top to wear in a chain.
Country: Cartier New York City, United States.
Period: Art-Deco, circa 1920.
Materials: Platinum, diamonds, black onyx, black hard enamel and optic hexagonal glass.
Diamonds: Mounted in French pave settings, with a selection of 108 European round cut diamonds, with an approximate total weight of about 3.26 carats, white colorless E/F color, VS clarity.
Onyx: Mounted in French boxed settings, with 11 graduated rectangular and round cabochon cut carved from natural black onyxes.
Weight: 26.5 Grams, (16.95 Dwt).
Measurements: As a pendant is 63 mm by 19 mm by 7 mm (2.50 x 0.75 x 0.28 Inch).
Measurements: As a lorgnette fully opened is 115.5 mm by 57 mm by 7 mm (4.55 x 2.25 x 0.28 Inch).
Hallmarks Stamped with the maker's mark, the mark for the assay and warranty of the platinum, the three-digits serial numbers and signed as follows, "CARTIER 182".
Cartier
The move to the rue de la Paix coincided with a period of extraordinary economic growth and affluence in France and the world. Cartier was also growing and expanding and had started to shift their emphasis from retailing to design and manufacture. Although they produced a small number of pieces in the Art Nouveau style, Cartier paid scant attention to the movement. They made their distinguishing mark in pioneering the use of platinum in creating the delicate and graceful Garland style that came to be associated with the Belle Époque. The discovery of the great diamond deposits in South Africa in the late 1860’s engendered the popularity of extravagant diamond jewelry. The technical advances in the manufacturing of platinum enabled designs of great intricacy, strength and flexibility such as found in the spectacular résille designs of Cartier. (See Edwardian Jewelry: 1901-1915). Cartier marked the beginning of the twentieth century by opening branches in London and New York, where their wealthiest and most dedicated clientele resided. The 1902 coronation of Edward VII occasioned a large number of commissions from England’s leading families. Records indicate that Cartier produced twenty-seven tiaras alone for the coronation and the event was instrumental in convincing the firm to seek a permanent presence in London. Indeed, by 1904 they had achieved their first of fifteen royal warrants being appointed official purveyor to the court of King Edward VII. The London branch came to thrive under the tutelage of Alfred’s youngest son, Jacques Cartier, establishing London based design and manufacturing workshops. Opening a Cartier store in New York was a natural progression as many of America’s wealthiest families and business magnates had been traveling to Paris for some time to purchase their jewels from Cartier. By 1906 Alfred had largely retired and Louis and his brother Pierre operated the Cartier business jointly. One of their first major decisions was to establish a New York presence and workshop in 1909 under the skilled direction of Pierre. Indicative of his business skills, Pierre famously secured Cartier’s present location, an elegant Beaux-Arts mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue, from industrialist Morton F. Plant in 1917. The building changed hands in exchange for $100 and a double strand of natural pearls, admired by Plant’s wife and valued at one million dollars, the asking price for the mansion. While the Fifth Avenue location remains priceless to the firm, when the pearls came up for auction in 1957, they fetched a mere $170,000. (From Lang's with thanks).
Collateral: This Cartier Pendant-Lorgnette is accompanied by a certificate prepared by Olivier Bachet (LAJA Expertise) stating the full description of this jewelry piece and the gemstones mounted. Certificate number XP2691-211125, dated November 21, 2025. (Certification receipt included)
Collateral: This Cartier Pendant-Lorgnette is accompanied by a certificate appraisal number and dated. Prepared by a certified GIA gemologist, stating all the description, diamond's notes, enamel, onyxes and the actual replacement market value.
Collateral: This Cartier pendant-lorgnette is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this Cartier pendant-lorgnette is excellent. Beside the little normal wear there is no damage to the platinum. The 119 gemstones are secured in the settings. This piece was carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and the authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P121525ACENN/.7745
