-Cartier 1900 Edwardian Enameled Locket Necklace In 14Kt Gold With Diamonds

Locket necklace designed by Cartier.

Gorgeous antique locket-necklace, created during the early Edwardian period by the house of Cartier, back in the 1900. This beautiful and rare piece was carefully crafted as a hinged oval medallion in two parts made up of solid yellow gold of 14 karats and embellished with applications of black enamel topped with flowers garlands made up in white-gray enamel. The central piece is a flowers arrangement in a basket, made in white gold and accented with thirteen European rose cut diamonds. It is fitted in the interior with two oval frames to place pictures or mementos, a movable ring on top with a white gold chain and a snap security push lock.

Diamonds: The central basket and the ring on top is mounted in millegrain settings, with 15 European old rose cut diamonds, 0.31 carats, G/H color, SI-1 clarity.

Weight: 17.95 Grams, (11.51 Dwt).

Lenght: The chain is 20 Inches, (50.8 Cm).

Measurements: 40 mm by 24 mm by 6.5 mm  (1.57 x 0.95 x 0.26 Inches).

Hallmarks Stamped with the maker's mark, the mark for the assay of the gold, the four digits serial numbers and signed, "CARTIER 14KT 3039".

Cartier

The move to the rue de la Paix coincided with a period of extraordinary economic growth and affluence in France and the world. Cartier was also growing and expanding and had started to shift their emphasis from retailing to design and manufacture. Although they produced a small number of pieces in the Art Nouveau style, Cartier paid scant attention to the movement. They made their distinguishing mark in pioneering the use of platinum in creating the delicate and graceful Garland style that came to be associated with the Belle Époque. The discovery of the great diamond deposits in South Africa in the late 1860’s engendered the popularity of extravagant diamond jewelry. The technical advances in the manufacturing of platinum enabled designs of great intricacy, strength and flexibility such as found in the spectacular résille designs of Cartier. (See Edwardian Jewelry: 1901-1915). Cartier marked the beginning of the twentieth century by opening branches in London and New York, where their wealthiest and most dedicated clientele resided. The 1902 coronation of Edward VII occasioned a large number of commissions from England’s leading families. Records indicate that Cartier produced twenty-seven tiaras alone for the coronation and the event was instrumental in convincing the firm to seek a permanent presence in London. Indeed, by 1904 they had achieved their first of fifteen royal warrants being appointed official purveyor to the court of King Edward VII. The London branch came to thrive under the tutelage of Alfred’s youngest son, Jacques Cartier, establishing London based design and manufacturing workshops. Opening a Cartier store in New York was a natural progression as many of America’s wealthiest families and business magnates had been traveling to Paris for some time to purchase their jewels from Cartier. By 1906 Alfred had largely retired and Louis and his brother Pierre operated the Cartier business jointly. One of their first major decisions was to establish a New York presence and workshop in 1909 under the skilled direction of Pierre. Indicative of his business skills, Pierre famously secured Cartier’s present location, an elegant Beaux-Arts mansion at 653 Fifth Avenue, from industrialist Morton F. Plant in 1917. The building changed hands in exchange for $100 and a double strand of natural pearls, admired by Plant’s wife and valued at one million dollars, the asking price for the mansion. While the Fifth Avenue location remains priceless to the firm, when the pearls came up for auction in 1957, they fetched a mere $170,000. (From Lang's with thanks).

Edwardian Jewelry 

This Period was during the King Edward VII, after whom this period of jewelry history is named, reigned over England for only nine years, yet the style of jewelry known as “Edwardian” was created roughly between 1890 and 1920. Edwardian-era rings tend to be larger, opulent pieces, and stacked ring designs were popular. The metal surfaces of the rings were often diamond-encrusted for additional shimmer. Each of these rings is a work of art, showcasing a bygone era of grace, elegance and the royalty the Edwardian era is named for.

Millegrain 

This is a jewelry technique which refers to the textural effect of a close-set line of metal beads that are typically used as a border on the edges or bezels of jewelry.

Collateral: It is accompanied by the Cartier presentation jewelry box.

Condition: The overall condition of this necklace is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. All gemstones are secured in the settings. This jabot has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and the authenticity.

INVENTORY REF: N041223RENM/.3365