BURLE MARX 1970 Forma Livre Necklace In 18Kt Yellow Gold With Aquamarines
-Forma Livre necklace designed by Haroldo Burle Marx.
This is a magnificent sculptural necklace created in Rio De Janeiro Brazil by the artist jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx, back in 1970. The artistic necklace is gorgeous and has been masterfully crafted with free forms shapes and concretism art patterns in solid rich yellow gold of 18 karats with a delicate Florentine brushed finish. The design is completely articulated with concealed links, thirty movable fringes and slightly graduated bezel settings, which are mounted with a fabulous suite of ten natural Brazilian Aquamarines carved in their iconic Forma-Livre shapes. The concealed security lock is fitted with a push box and a hinged figure 8 for extra safety.
This rare Burle Marx Free Form Aquamarine Necklace, emanates timeless elegance. Originating from Burle Marx's personal collection until the 80s, this unique piece, showcases unparalleled craftsmanship, unlikely to be replicated today. As a testament to its extraordinary status, this necklace is deemed a Museum Piece, embodying the artistic mastery and goldsmithing of Burle Marx, whose clientele included luminaries like Cicely Tyson, Madame Ferragamo, and Placido Domingo. This is a timeless representation of opulence and artistry, this necklace is the epitome with the legacy of Burle Marx.
Country: Brazil.
Style: Modernist, Concrete-Art. 1970.
Aquamarine: Mounted in bezel settings, with 10 graduated elongated fancy cabochons cut (average of 35 x 10 x 7 mm) carved from natural Brazilian aquamarines with a combined weight of about 210 carats.
Birthstone: Aquamarines for the month of March.
Weight: 152.95 Grams, (98.15 Dwt).
Size: The inside circumference is 16.65 Inches, (42 Cm.).
Measurements: The dangle drop element in the center is 39 mm by 13,5 mm by 13 (1.54 x 0.55 x 0.51 Inches).
Hallmarks Stamped with the designer's mark, the goldsmith maker's mark, the mark for the assay and warranty of the 18kt gold and signed in full as follows, "BURLE MARX GM 791 IND BRAZIL .750 ".
Haroldo Burle Marx
He was born in Rio de Janeiro in 1911 and was a designer, lapidary and gemologist than ran a successful workshop and gallery in Rio de Janeiro from the 1930 through the 1980. His exceptional work was a source of pride for Brazil. When dignitaries visited the country, the government often commissioned Haroldo to create pieces to present to them. Japan’s Empress Nagako, for one example, received an opal necklace when she visited the country. Queen Margrethe of Denmark wore a Burle Marx demi suite of an aquamarine ring and brooch on her wedding trip in 1966. Burle Marx did pioneer new looks and his influence can be seen in Brazilian jewelry designer’s work to this day. When his pieces were set with gems designed by his brother Roberto the combination was something truly special. The gems Roberto conceived were in a style called the Forma Livre Cut or free form cut. The unusual shapes transform Brazilian semiprecious gems into architectural elements in the jewels. The jewelry works of Roberto Burle Marx and Haroldo Burle Marx, in different ways, are iconic representations of Brazil's innovative fine jewelry designing between the 1950 and 1980, indeed, of Brazilian modernism art movement. This rare piece has an obvious collaboration between three big names of the Brazilian arts; Haroldo Burle Marx (1911-1991) the designer and jeweler with galleries in Brazil and Washington DC., Bruno Guidi the master chief goldsmith and lead designer of Burle Marx and finally Roberto Burle Marx (1909-1994), Haroldo's brother, designer and a landscape architect.
Concrete Art
This term, was coined in 1930 by Theo Van Doesburg in his manifesto "Concrete Art", written in response to the formation of the association "Cercle et Carré". The document was signed by Hélion, Carlsund, Tutundjian and Wantz. When Van Doesburg died in 1931, his ideas were taken up at the end of the 1930s by two Swiss artists, Max Bill and Jean Arp, who published several works and held important exhibitions of painting, sculpture and applied arts. The denomination "concrete" or "concretism" is assumed in Switzerland in the post-war period by artists working in the current of geometric abstraction. The relationship between abstraction and concrete art is evident in the exhibition at the René Drouin Gallery in Paris in 1945, since it is the first important exhibition of abstract art, and its title was precisely “Art Concrete”. In this art all kinds of illusionism are excluded; the work and the elements of which it consists are presented strictly for what they are, without virtual qualities. Materials do not simulate anything other than themselves. The slogan “real materials, real space” is often used in relation to this art form.
References: RAGO-ARTS Holidays Jewels & Luxury, 23 November 2023, Lot -201 for a similar necklace offered at the sale. The necklace offered was half of the size and weight than ours.
Provenance: Purchased at H. Burle Marx jewelry store in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. A private collection in New York City. A private collection in Greenwich Connecticut. Acquired in a private treaty in 2024.
Collateral: This necklace is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this Burle Marx necklace is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The 10 aquamarine is secured in the setting. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and the authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: N121124MOANS/3.676
