-Art Deco 1920 Mughal Tutti Frutti Necklace In Silver With 303.69 Cts In Gemstones & Natural Pearls
Art Deco Mughal style jeweled necklace.
Beautiful and colorful piece, most probably created in England during the Art Deco period, back in the 1920. This very unusual and striking necklace was assembled in the Mughal Tutti Frutti style with silver wires.
The lock of this necklace is in 18 kt yellow gold and is very ingenious, since it is concealed within the carving of the last green tourmaline gem. The stone is drilled and fitted with a drawer-type cylinder with a push lock.
It is embellished with 13 Natural Keshi pearls of diverse sizes and tonalities and mounted in full with colored translucent natural gemstones. All of them are specifically described as follow;
1 Double Pear Cabochon drop cut (37.8 x 28.2 x 17.1) of a Reddish Rubellite, 154.56 carats
1 Cushion Cabochon cut (30.1 x 14.2 x 11.3 mm) of a Green Tourmaline, 39.17 carats.
10 Semi Oval Cabochons cut (average 4 x 5 x 3 mm) of Ceylon and Pailin Blue Sapphires, 4.65 carats.
4 Oval Cabochons cut (average 10 x 15 x 12 mm) of Pink Tourmaline, 61.04 carats.
4 Tumbler free-form Cabochons cut (average 18 x 13 x 15 mm) of Green Fluorite, 39.87 carats.
22 Rondelle faceted round cuts (3 mm) carved from Black Onyx, 4.40 carats.
This magnificent piece have a total weight of 69.5 Grams and a length of 15 Inches (38 Cm). The main element has a drop of 58 mm (1.28 Inches).
History: The first Tutti Frutti piece was designed in 1901 by Pierre Cartier. It was a necklace commissioned by queen Alexandra to be worn with three Indian gowns she received as a gift. The designs are considered the perfect mix of east and west because they are made up of brightly colored gemstones (like sapphires, rubies and emeralds) carved using Indian techniques and set in French platinum and diamond mountings. The style became extremely popular during the 1920's, but it wasn't christened the 'Tutti Frutti' until1970.
Mughal jewelry. Five centuries ago, India was under the rule and influence of the Mughal dynasty. The Mughal royalty were connoisseurs of architecture, arts, food, clothing and of course, jewelry. During the Mughal rule, jewelry-making was given utmost importance. This art gave birth to unique jewelry pieces studded with chunky gemstones and enameled with motif designs. Royal family members and people of high rank proudly displayed such jewelry all over their bodies, from jeweled turbans and head-jewelry to thick-set toe rings. The Mughal emperors wore silk turbans sequined with decorative, drooping feather-like ornaments. These turban ornaments are cast in enameled gold and are augmented with precious gemstones and pearls. Such head jewelry was made of either gold or silver and decorated with precious gemstones and quality beads.
Note: Keshi Pearls are highly prized and very valuable because of their remarkable luster. Since they are purely precious material, they are sold by weight like a gemstone. When collected and designed into a magnificent strand or a wearable work of art as jewelry, they become even more valuable.
It is in great condition and is presented in a fitted jewelry box.
INVENTORY REF: N0000AOEN/1.670