TIFFANY & CO. 1900 Edwardian Essex Glass Enameled Equestrian Pin In 18Kt Gold
Equestrian Essex glass pin designed by Tiffany & Co.
This is an exceptionally rare pin created during the Edwardian period at Tiffany & Co. back in the 1900's. The stick pin has been crafted in solid yellow gold of 18 karats and mounted with an Essex glass reverse intaglio carving, depicting the equestrian thematic of a three-dimensional horse-rider. The piece is secured by a gold stick pin and embellished with a an outer curved frame, which is decorated with blue and white hard enamels. Masterfully made with great craftsmanship and showing beautiful rich aged patina. This stunning pin would look beautiful worn on a blouse or blazer, either alone or paired with other pins! It is presented in the original antique Tiffany box.
Country: New York City, United States.
Period: Edwardian, 1900-1905.
Technique: Hand carved, hand painted Essex Glass.
Weight: 7.85 Grams, (5.10 Dwt).
Measurements: 80 mm by 24 mm by 6 mm (3.15 x 0.95 x 0.24 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped at the reverse with the maker's mark, the mark for the assay and warranty of the 18kt gold and signed as follows, "TIFFANY & CO.". The gold parts have been independently tested using state of the art technology (Niton XL2 Analyzer) and verified as .750/.999 assay.
Essex Glass
Essex glass is a term primarily used in connection with a specific form of reverse intaglio, a technique where a design is engraved on the back of a crystal cabochon, then painted and sealed. This results in a visually stunning effect where the image appears to float within the crystal. The final result is a cabochon where the painted design appears to be floating within the crystal, creating a unique and visually captivating effect.
The Edwardian Period
This era, like the Georgian and Victorian eras before it, derives its name from the reign of the English King, Edward VII (1901-1910). Edwardian jewelry is known for representing femininity while incorporating a lot of the color white. Think diamonds, pearls and white metals like platinum and white gold. Diamonds often had an Old Mine or European cut and sapphires were a popular choice for a pop of color. They tended to be made from platinum and diamonds – the more, the merrier – and used fashionable, intricate techniques such as filigree and mill grain. Edwardian rings are works of art and best worn alone or alongside a simple wedding band. Mille graining, a new decorative technique made possible by the use of platinum, is featured often on Edwardian jewelry. Its border of delicate balls and ridges surrounding a gemstone or on the knife sharp edges of a design served to give jewelry a softer, lighter look.
Literature: Miller, Anna M. Illustrated Guide to Jewelry Appraising. New York: Von Nostrand Reinhold, 1990. Widener, Roger & Walter, Thomas. “Little Beauties” The Story of Reverse Intaglio Crystals © Roger Thomas ltd. For similar examples of this rare and difficult technique.
Collateral: This Tiffany & Co. Essex glass equestrian pin is accompanied by the original designer's presentation fitted jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this Tiffany & Co. Essex pin is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold and all parts are secured. This pin has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P061225MCEN/.1887
