MAUBOUSSIN 1938 Trabert & Hoeffer Pendant-Brooch 18Kt Gold & Burmese Rubies
Pendant-brooch designed by Gustave Toth for Mauboussin, Trabert & Hoeffer.
This amazing pendant-brooch was originally designed by Gustave Toth for the American-French company of Mauboussin, Trabert & Hoeffer back in the 1938. The piece has been made up during the post art deco period with retro-modernist patterns as a convertible pendant-brooch. Masterfully crafted with multiples scrolled elements in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with Florentine brushed finish and embellished with a gorgeous selection of natural earth mined gemstones, such; eight white colorless diamonds and seven intense red Burmese unheated rubies. The brooch was part of the MT&H collection called Reflections and is fitted at the reverse with a hinged pin bar with a lock,to wear as a brooch and a concealed hook to wear in a chain or necklace.
Trabert & Hoeffer
The tradition of offering some of the world’s most spectacular fine jewelry began in 1930 when Trabert & Hoeffer established its first store on Park Avenue in New York. With an impeccable reputation, Trabert & Hoeffer expanded to Palm Beach, Beverly Hills, Atlantic City, and finally Chicago. Shortly thereafter, the Company purchased inventory from the famous Parisian jeweler, Mauboussin, who had decided to close their New York location. A historic partnership was born, forever establishing Trabert & Hoeffer as a jeweler of distinction, at home and abroad. Designs created in the 1930's through the early 1950's have been immortalized with the illustrious Trabert & Hoeffer/Mauboussin stamp. Trabert & Hoeffer’s Chicago location is the only one that remains today.
The Reflection Line
The ‘Reflection’ line was designed by Gustave Toth and introduced in 1938, marketed as “the first truly American jewel style”. The pieces were bold and stylish, vibrant and glamourous often utilizing yellow gold and with designs that moved away from the geometric shapes of Art Deco jewelry towards a more curvilinear three-dimensional profile. These stylistic and material elements were cleverly combined with a ‘modern’ approach to personalization as the collection allowed the client to select from a series of pre-cast elements which could then be assembled by hand to create a semi-bespoke piece or suite of jewelry, many of which were convertible.
Rubies: Mounted in prongs-settings, with 7 graduated oval cabochon cuts of natural Burmese rubies, with a combined weight of about 5.35 carats. The rubies are not heated or treated.
Diamonds: Mount in flush settings, with 8 calibrated European round brilliant cut diamonds, 0.40 carats, white colorless F color, VS clarity.
Birthstone: Rubies for the month of July.
Weight: 18.75 grams, (12.01 Dwt.).
Measures: 75 mm by 67 mm (2.95 x 2.64 inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's marks, the mark for the assay and warranty of the 18kt gold, the four-digits serial numbers and signed as follows, "TRABERT & HOEFFER MAUBOUSSIN REFLECTION .750 6438".
Provenance: Acquired in the 1940, at the Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin store in New York City. A private collection in Miami Florida.
Literature: Yvonne J. Markowitz, The jewels of Trabert & Hoeffer Mauboussin, MFA Publications 2014. pp 88-89 illustrations 12 and 23 for very similar examples illustrated.
Provenance: Acquired in the 1950, at the Trabert & Hoeffer-Mauboussin store in Lincoln Road, Miami Florida. A private collection in Miami Florida.
Collateral: This brooch is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Collateral: This brooch is accompanied by the GIA laboratory report stating the rubies are natural Burmese, transparent and not heated.
Collateral: This brooch is accompanied by a certificate appraisal prepared by a GIA certified gemologist stating all the characteristics of this piece of jewelry, the exact description of the gemstones and the today's market replacement value.
Condition: The overall condition of this Mauboussin brooch is excellent. Besides the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The 15 gemstones are secured in their settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P012125MTIN/.4507
