CARTIER 1970 By Bill Smith Pendant In 18Kt Yellow Gold with Green Jadeites
Pendant designed by Bill Smith (1936-1989) for Cartier.
This is a fabulous sculptural pendant, designed by Bill Smith for the jewelry house of Cartier back in the 1970. The rare and one-of-a-kind pendant, was crafted in the shape of the mythological transformation of the phoenix bird showing fantastic scalloped body. This pendant was masterfully made-up in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with textured finish and is embellished with six round carvings of natural green jadeite. The pendant is fitted at the reverse with a concealed ring to wear in a chain. This piece is extremely rare and historical, Bill Smith's gold jewelry pieces for Cartier are unique pieces and highly collectable.
Bill Smith
He was born in 1936 and is an American fashion and jewelry designer who was the first black recipient of a Coty Award for his designs. He has designed for a number of companies, including costume jewelry for Coro and Richelieu, leather goods for Mark Cross, and furs for Ben Kahn, along with designing jewelry for Cartier. In June 1968, Bill Smith was made vice-president of Richelieu, at that time the second largest jewelry firm in America, after only two months with the company as their head designer. Later that year in October, he was commissioned to exclusively create all the jewelry for the Broadway production of Coco, a stage musical about the life of Coco Chanel starring Katharine Hepburn. Bill Smith was one of six jewelry designers honored with a special Coty Award in 1970 alongside Daniel Stoenescu and Steven Brody of Cadoro, Alexis Kirk, Marty Ruza and Cliff Nicholson. His designs draw inspiration from his African heritage and have been described as sparse and sculptural. At the time of the Coty Award win his designs incorporated tassels, leather, and cord alongside metal and stone, and he had experience with precious and semi-precious stones and metals. Alongside more traditional jewelry, he offered chignon covers and belts, including one in fringed suede fastened with an eight-inch gilded mermaid, and a range of architectural ethnic-style crosses, titled "Peacemakers", hanging from silk cords.
Jadeite: Mounted with, 6 graduated round discs carved from natural green jadeite with a combined total weight of about 12 carats.
Birthstone: Jadeite for the month of March.
Weight: 87.4 Grams, (56.10 Dwt).
Measurements: 67 mm by 56 mm by 20 mm (2.64 x 1.21 x 0.79 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark, the artist's name, the mark for the assay of the gold, the five-digits serial numbers, and signed as follow: "CARTIER 18KT BILL SMITH 14887 / 14493".
References: Philips auctions New York, New York Jewels Auction, 25 June 2021 Lot-69. for other pieces of Bill Smith offered in the sale,
Collateral: This pendant is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this Cartier pendant is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The 6 jadeites are secured in their settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P111724METNM/2.104
