ART NOUVEAU 1900 Plique à Jour Enamel Watch In 18Kt Gold With Diamonds
Art nouveau enamel Plique à Jour watch
This is a very fine miniature brooch-pendant-watch, created in Genève Switzerland during the Art Nouveau period, between 1890-1900. The fabulous watch was crafted in a round shape with sculpted floriated motifs in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with little accents in silver for the settings of the twenty-one rose-cuts diamonds It is embellished with green glass enamel made up in the difficult technique of the Plique à Jour. The brooch is fitted with a hook to hang the little pocket watch and at the reverse with a hinged bar to wear the suite as a brooch.
Plique à jour
Is a French term, meaning "letting in daylight". Is a very difficult vitreous enameling technique where the enamel is applied in cells, similar to cloisonné, but with no backing in the final product, so light can shine through the transparent or translucent enamel. It is in effect a miniature version of stained-glass and is considered very challenging technically: high time consumption (up to 4 months per item), with a high failure rate. The technique is similar to that of cloisonné, but using a temporary backing that after firing is dissolved by acid or rubbed away. A different technique relies solely on surface tension, for smaller areas. In Japan the technique is known as shotai-jippo (shotai shippo), and is found from the 19th century.
Movement: Mechanical hand-wingding, 15 jewels with
Dial: Round, round porcelain with gold dots, blue Arabic numerals and golden hands, with secondary dial for the seconds. Mount with convex glass. Restored.
Case: Round in 18kt yellow gold, enameled and diamonds set in silver. Movable ring on top.
Diamonds: Mounted in inlaid silver setting, with 21 European rose-cut diamonds, with a total of about 0.63 carats, H/I color, SI clarity.
Weight: Total of 39.4 Grams, (25.30 Dwt).
Measurements: 77 mm by 28 mm by 13 mm (3.03 x 1.10 x 0.51 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with Swiss marks, the French import marks of the swan, the reference six-digits serial numbers and signed as follow, "SWISS 504820".
Collateral: This Plique Au Jour pocket watch is accompanied by the original retailer's presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this Plique Au Jour pocket watch is very good. Besides the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The 21 diamonds are secured in the settings. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and the authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P051125SONM/.9471
