LLUIS MASRIERA 1915 Barcelona Art Nouveau Plique Au Jour Bracelet In 18Kt Gold
An art-nouveau Noucentisme bracelet designed by Lluís Masriera.
This is an absolutely gorgeous bracelet created in Barcelona Spain by the renowned jeweler Lluís Masriera, back in the 1910-1915. This fabulous Catalonian bracelet has been masterfully crafted in solid yellow gold of 18 karats and embellished with applications of glass enamels in the difficult plique-au-jour technique. This bracelet belongs to the Catalan artistic movement called Noucentista and is decorated with the sculpted bust of a richly dressed princess, magical winged beasts, dragons and griffins. The bracelet is fitted with a concealed three-barrels hinge, a push boxed lock and a safely slash.
Lluís Masriera
He was born in Barcelona in 1872 to the painter Josep Masriera, who was also a well-known silversmith and, along with his brother Francesc Masriera, ran the family jewelry business started by his father, José Masriera I Vidal. Lluís Masriera started in his family's workshop and created pieces with the same aesthetic and precision that the workshop had always been known for; one which highlighted technical perfection but little creativity. In 1900, at the age of eighteen, Masriera returned to Barcelona and was named the new artistic director of the family workshop and changed the direction and style of the jewelry that was produced. Inspired by Lalique's designs, Masriera melted down all the family’s existing jewellery stock in order to use the raw materials to redesign the pieces into his new style/aesthetic: Modernisme. The total inventory overhaul was completed in six months. The new collection debuted on Saint Thomas Day in 1901 and the pieces "were immediately successful and sold out in a single week." Masriera continued to create Modernisme pieces until 1913, when he stated in an essay, The Fall of Modernism, that "Modernism [was] dead." After Art Nouveau had fallen out of favor, Masriera moved on to the Noucentisme school of design which embraced classical, timeless design elements until his death in 1958.
Noucentisme
From within the furnace of Barcelona, the capital of Catalonia, grew an art movement in the early 20th century that influenced painters, writers, architects, garden designers — and jewelers. The movement, called Noucentisme, arose as a reaction to an earlier artistic period known as Modernism, which was associated with modernist movements throughout Europe. Noucentisme reflected the Catalan aesthetic -which is, of course, in opposition to Spanish and European influences- and turned to the region’s spiritual roots. Noucentisme has been poetically described as “a term without outlines, almost indefinable,” that pretends to gather “the palpitations of time.” The painter Joaquín Sunyer described the characteristics of Noucentisme in a broad way: Imaginative art, Intellectualism, Art for art’s sake Order, perfection, and beauty. One of the movement’s founders, a lawyer and artist named Eugeni D’Ors, believed that humankind wished to enter a new period of “morality” and that the ideal motto for a new society would be “the work well done.” Noucentisme jewelry is muscular yet sensual, which might also describe Catalan nationalism. Artistically, the form espouses clear geometrical structures, harmony of all the parts and work that demonstrates careful design as opposed to impulsiveness. The materials often used in Noucentisme jewelry are rose cut diamonds, synthetic spinel, marcasite, synthetic sapphires, aquamarine and turquoise; and silver, gold, and combinations of the two, with details of platinum. Enamels are used as highlights. The pieces feature hammered surfaces with spirals and stepped figures. Rectangular forms are preferred to ovals. Famous Noucentisme artists were writers -especially of poetry- architects, sculptors, and painters, such; Ramón Sunyer i Clará, (1869-1963), Jaume Mercadé i Queralt, (1887-1967), Manolo Hugué, (1872-1945) and for this bracelet the jewelers Fuset y Grau. (Sharon Arts & Jewelry with thanks).
Country: Barcelona Spain.
Period: Art-nouveau, 1910-1915.
Style: Catalonian Noucentisme.
Materials: Platinum, 18kt Yellow gold, glass enamel, sapphire, diamonds and agate.
Weight: 67.96 Grams, (43.56 Dwt).
Sapphire: Mount in a bezel setting, with 1 round faceted cut of a natural blue sapphire with a weight of about 1.15 carats.
Diamonds: The women's diadem is accented in flush mill grain settings, with 9 European rose cut diamonds, 0.09 carats.
Size: Fit a wrist up to 7.85 Inches, (20 Cm).
Measurements: The width is 31 mm (1.22 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with the Catalonian mark of the Bat, the maker's mark and electronically tested for .750/.999 gold.
Provenance: A private collection in Barcelona Spain.
Collateral: This Lluís Masriera bracelet is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this Lluís Masriera, bracelet is excellent. Besides the little normal wear, there is no damage to the silver. The 10 gemstones and the enameled parts are secured in their settings. This bracelet has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: B041225MAENM/1.633
