-Burle Marx 1960 Brazil Forma Livre Cocktail Ring In 18Kt Yellow Gold With 39 Cts Carved Amethyst
Forma Livre ring designed by Haroldo Burle Marx.
Great oversized sculptural cocktail ring from the forma livre collection. This rare ring has been created in Brazil by the artist-jeweler and designer, Haroldo Burle Marx during the mid-century period, back in the late 1960's. It was crafted as an unique piece in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with high polished finish. This is a wearable art-piece and a very nice example of the Brazilian concretism art.
Amethyst: Mounted in the center in a bezel, with 1 free-form (Forma Livre) cabochon cut, carved from natural Brazilian purple-violet Amethyst gemstone, with an estimate weight of 38 carats.
Weight: 24.60 grams (15.67 Dwt).
Size: 8, sizeable.
Measures: 30 mm by 23 mm (1.18 x 0.91 Inches) and raise 20 mm from the finger.
Hallmarks: Stamped and engraved with the maker's mark, the mark for the assay of the gold and signed, "BURLE MARX .750".
Haroldo Burle Marx, born in Rio de Janeiro in 1911. He was a designer, lapidary and gemologist than ran a successful workshop and gallery in Rio de Janeiro from the 1930 through the 1980. Haroldo studied gemology in Idar-Oberstein, Germany, the center of the gemstone cutting industry before opening his shop at Rodolfo Dantas, 6 Copacabana, Rio de Janeiro in 1954. There he employed a small team of Brazilian and Italian craftsman, including master goldsmith, Bruno Guidi. His exceptional work was a source of pride for Brazil. When dignitaries visited the country, the government often commissioned Haroldo to create pieces to present to them. Japan’s Empress Nagako, for one example, received an opal necklace when she visited the country. Queen Margrethe of Denmark wore a Burle Marx demi suite of an aquamarine ring and brooch on her wedding trip in 1966.
Burle Marx did pioneer new looks and his influence can be seen in Brazilian jewelry designer’s work to this day. When his pieces were set with gems designed by his brother Roberto the combination was something truly special. The gems Roberto conceived were in a style called the Forma Livre Cut or free form cut. The unusual shapes transform Brazilian semi precious gems into architectural elements in the jewels. The jewelry works of Roberto Burle Marx and Haroldo Burle Marx, in different ways, are iconic representations of Brasil’s innovative fine jewelry designing between the 1950 and 1980, indeed, of Brazilian modernism art movement.
This rare piece have an obvious collaboration between three big names of the Brazilian arts; Haroldo Burle Marx (1911-1991) the designer and jeweler with galleries in brazil and Washington DC., Bruno Guidi the master chief goldsmith and lead designer of Burle Marx and finally Roberto Burle Marx (1909-1994), Haroldo's brother, designer and a landscape architect.
Provenance: The Altomar collection Washington DC,, A private collection in New York. A private collection from Miami Florida.
Note: Purple combines the calm stability of blue and the fierce energy of red. The color purple is often associated with royalty, nobility, luxury, power, and ambition.Amethyst represent purification and connection to spiritual and divine. The meaning of amethyst is attached to serenity, understanding, trust and grace.
Collateral: It is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this ring is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The Amethyst is secured in the settings. This ring has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: R060723MENM/.5913
