-Mario Buccellati 1960 Milan Profumo Brooch In 18Kt Yellow With Pearls And Sapphires
Brooch designed by Mario Buccellati.
Exceptional three dimensional piece created in Milano Italy by the iconic house of Buccellati, back in the late 1960. This flowers brooch is one of the most iconic designs from the Profumo series made by the house. It was carefully crafted in solid yellow gold of 18 karat. The entire surface is finished with the characteristic Buccellati's etched intricate patterns. Fitted at the reverse with a hinged double pin bars with a trombone closure lock to use as a brooch.
When creating this jewel Mario Buccellati looked to achieve a naturalistic quality and to do this he used different styles of engraving: Rigato, which is the process of engraving parallel lines which gives the metal a silky appearance; and Telato, where cross-hatched lines are used to add more of a texture. Both techniques have been employed in this brooch along with pearls, sapphires and diamonds.
Pearls: Mounted in bar settings, with 3 semi round baroque white/gray pearls of 10 mm.
Sapphires: Mounted in four-prongs settings, with 36 round cut of natural blue sapphires, 2.52 carats.
Diamonds: Mount in flush settings, with 5 old European round cut diamonds, 0.10 carats, G/H color, SI-1 clarity.
Weight: 43.75 grams, (28.04 Dwt).
Measurements: 83 mm by 52 mm (3.25 x 2.05 Inches).
Hallmarks: Engraved with the maker's mark, the gold assay mark and signed in full, "M. BUCCELLATI ITALY 18KT .750 15MI".
Mario Buccellati, born in 1891 and opened his first enterprise in 1919, after the establishment of stores in Milan, Rome and Florence, began the development of his overseas business by opening a new store on Fifth Avenue in New York in 1954 and another in Worth Avenue in Palm Beach, Florida in 1958. In 1949, Mario Buccellati was commissioned to create an icon by Pope PiUs XII for Princess Margaret to mark the extraordinary power of the first visit of a British Royal to Vatican City in hundreds of years. This magnificent work of art can be admired today at the Chianciano Art Museum in Tuscany. In 1965, after the death of Mario, the management of the firm was conducted by four of his five sons. In 1971, the new brand Gianmaria Buccellati was launched by one of Mario's sons, who started a separate business from his brothers, and in 2011 came to an agreement with his relatives for the brand Buccellati, then Buccellati Holding Italia, reshaping the company.
Literature: Martina Corgnati, Mario Buccellati Prince of Goldsmiths, Rizzoli 1998. Martina Corgnati, Mario Buccellati, Storie di uomini e gioielli. Leonardo Arte 1998. For similar pieces illustrated with the same techniques.
Note: This piece is a beautiful, large and rare brooch with substantial weight in great vintage condition with gorgeous aged patina.
Collateral: It is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this brooch is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P022423AEEN/1.051
