KURT WAYNE Articulated Crab Brooch In 14Kt Gold With Onyxes, Rubies & Diamonds
Articulated crab brooch designed by Kurt Wayne (1909-1990).
This is a very cute articulated crab brooch created by the jewelry designer Kurt Wayne, back in the late 1980's. The elusive brooch has been masterfully crafted with substantial weight in solid yellow gold of 14 karats with high polished finish. The crab is fully movable and embellished with a gorgeous selection of twenty-three earth-mined natural gemstones, such; white colorless diamonds, pigeon blood vivid red rubies and black onyxes. It is fitted at the reverse with a hinged pin bar with a mechanical security lock.
Kurt Wayne
The jewelry designer Kurt Wayne exemplifies Retro-style jewelry. Born in Austria in 1909, he immigrated to the United States in 1937. The prolific designer worked well into the 1980s and was celebrated for his bold silhouettes and curving lines. The history of the Kurt Wayne jewelry brand began in 1945. He was born in 1909 in Vienna, Austria, Kurt was orphaned early. Having come under the care of a local jeweler, 10-year-old Kurt began to learn jewelry craftsmanship. After years of apprenticeship, Kurt became a professional silversmith, goldsmith, diamond cutter, watchmaker, and jewelry designer. In 1939, Kurt and his wife emigrated to the United States to escape the WWII. There he continued to work in jewelry workshops and sell jewelry. Finally, he founded the family business at the age of 36, opening an eponymous jewelry company in New York. Kurt created highly artistic jewelry, more like miniature sculptures. The greatest inspiration for the jeweler was nature itself, the love for which he embodied in his animalistic and floral designs. Noteworthy, Wayne developed a good personal relationship with notable businessmen. In particular, the Zale family of Russian-Jewish jewelers and Stanley Marcus, president of luxury retailer Neiman Marcus in Dallas, Texas. Traditionally, the jeweler used 18K gold and precious stones – emeralds, diamonds, sapphires, rubies, etc. Item markings include “KW” or “Kurt Wayne” with the karat of gold or silver. Kurt Wayne passed away in 1990.
Rubies: Mount in bezel settings, with 2 round cabochons cut of natural vivid red rubies, with a combined weight of about 0.20 carats, The rubies are intense pigeon blood, translucent with no inclusions.
Diamonds: Mount in inlaid settings, with 18 calibrated round brilliant cut diamonds, with a weight of about 0.18 carats, white colorless F/G color, VS clarity.
Onyx: Mounted in bezel settings, with 3 free forms carvings of natural black onyx.
Birthstone: Rubies for the month of July.
Weight: 18.2 Grams, (11.70 Dwt).
Measurements: 43 mm by 40 mm (1.70 x 1.58 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with the maker's mark associated to Kurt Wayne, the mark for the assay and warranty of the gold and signed as follows: "©KW14KT .585"
Collateral: This Kurt Wayne crab brooch is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this Kurt Wayne crab brooch is excellent. Besides the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The 23 gemstones are secured in their settings. This ring has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P050925MREA/.3412
