-Burle Marx Bruno Guidi 1970 Cocktail Ring In 18Kt Yellow Gold With Aquamarine
Cocktail ring designed by Haroldo Burle Marx.
An oversized and very rare sculptural cocktail ring, created in Brazil by the artist jeweler Haroldo Burle Marx and the goldsmith Bruno Guidi, back in the 1970. This gorgeous artistic piece has been crafted with free forms shapes and concretism art patterns in solid yellow gold of 18 karats with a delicate brushed finish. Mount on top with a rare and iconic forma livre shaped aquamarine.
Aquamarine: Mount in a bezel setting, with 1 fancy cabochon cut () of a natural Brazilian aquamarine of about 35 carats.
Weight: 26.95 Grams, (17.28 Dwt).
Size: 8.25 and can be resized.
Measurements: 31 mm by 27 mm (1.22 x 1.06 Inches) and raise 16 mm over the finger.
Hallmarks Stamped with the designer's mark, the goldsmith maker's mark, the mark for the assay of the gold and signed in full, "BURLE MARX BRUNO GUIDI BRAZIL .750".
Haroldo Burle Marx
He born in Rio de Janeiro in 1911 and was a designer, lapidary and gemologist than ran a successful workshop and gallery in Rio de Janeiro from the 1930 through the 1980. His exceptional work was a source of pride for Brazil. When dignitaries visited the country, the government often commissioned Haroldo to create pieces to present to them. Japan’s Empress Nagako, for one example, received an opal necklace when she visited the country. Queen Margrethe of Denmark wore a Burle Marx demi suite of an aquamarine ring and brooch on her wedding trip in 1966. Burle Marx did pioneer new looks and his influence can be seen in Brazilian jewelry designer’s work to this day. When his pieces were set with gems designed by his brother Roberto the combination was something truly special. The gems Roberto conceived were in a style called the Forma Livre Cut or free form cut. The unusual shapes transform Brazilian semiprecious gems into architectural elements in the jewels. The jewelry works of Roberto Burle Marx and Haroldo Burle Marx, in different ways, are iconic representations of Brazil's innovative fine jewelry designing between the 1950 and 1980, indeed, of Brazilian modernism art movement.
This rare piece have an obvious collaboration between three big names of the Brazilian arts; Haroldo Burle Marx (1911-1991) the designer and jeweler with galleries in brazil and Washington DC., Bruno Guidi the master chief goldsmith and lead designer of Burle Marx and finally Roberto Burle Marx (1909-1994), Haroldo's brother, designer and a landscape architect.
This term, was coined in 1930 by Theo Van Doesburg in his manifesto "Concrete Art", written in response to the formation of the association "Cercle et Carré". The document was signed by Hélion, Carlsund, Tutundjian and Wantz. When Van Doesburg died in 1931, his ideas were taken up at the end of the 1930s by two Swiss artists, Max Bill and Jean Arp, who published several works and held important exhibitions of painting, sculpture and applied arts. The denomination "concrete" or "concretism" is assumed in Switzerland in the post-war period by artists working in the current of geometric abstraction. The relationship between abstraction and concrete art is evident in the exhibition at the René Drouin Gallery in Paris in 1945, since it is the first important exhibition of abstract art, and its title was precisely “Art Concret”. In this art all kinds of illusionism are excluded; the work and the elements of which it consists are presented strictly for what they are, without virtual qualities. Materials do not simulate anything other than themselves. The slogan “real materials, real space” is often used in relation to this art form.
Provenance: Purchased at H. Burle Marx jewelry store in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. A private collection in New York city, USA. Acquired in May 2023.
Collateral: It is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The overall condition of this ring is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. The aquamarine is secured in the setting. This piece has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and the authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: R111723SSNM/.6478