Bailey Biddle & Banks 1880 Enameled Etruscan Queen Pendant Brooch In 18Kt Gold With 3.49 Cts Rubies And Diamonds
An etruscan revival pendant-brooch by Bailey, Banks & Biddle.
Magnificent important antique piece from the late 19th century, circa 1880. It was created by the iconic American jeweler and luxury retailers Bailey, Banks & Biddle. This convertible pendant-brooch has been crafted with Etruscan revival patterns in solid yellow gold of 18 karats. It is fitted at the reverse with a retractable circular bale on top to wear as a pendant in a chain and a hinged horizontal pin bar with a security lock to wear as a brooch. The central panel is carefully painted with vibrant vivid multicolor polychrome enamels over a guilloche surface, depicting an ancient Etruscan queen portrait facing forward.
The queen's portrait is richly dressed with Elizabethan ropes, wearing pearls jewelry; a drop earrings, a necklace and a diadem. The crown is excessively well decorated with a pair of little horns similar to the ancient mythological image of the goddess Diana or Artemis.
Diamonds: The Etruscan queen's portrait is decorated with 13 European rose cut diamonds with a combined weight of 0.39 carats.
Ruby Gemstones: Mounted around the outer frame with 31 calibrated round cut of natural vivid red rubies with a combined weight of 3.10 carats. The rubies are Burmese, translucents and not heated.
Weight: 13.75 Grams, (8.82 Dwt).
Measurements: 30 mm by 33 mm (1.18 x 1.30 Inches).
Hallmarks: Stamped with with the maker's mark, the serial numbers and signed, "B.B.&B. 21807 18KT".
Bailey, Banks & Biddle, was originally known as Bailey & Kitchen. Was founded at 136 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia, on September 20, 1832, by Joseph Trowbridge Bailey and Andrew B. Kitchen. This makes Bailey Banks & Biddle the Oldest Nationwide Jeweler in America and quickly became a recognized leader in the jewelry fashion. By the late 19th century, the firm’s reputation was solidified as one of the country’s leading jewelers and go-to source for all manner of fine things. The partnership was dissolved in November 1846. It was reformed with new partners as Bailey & Co. in 1841, and on March 1, 1878, again re-established as Bailey Banks & Biddle. From about 1852–1862, the company made its own silver; they were principally supplied by Taylor and Lawrie before 1852, and from about 1862–1870, by George B. Sharp.After 1870, they resold silver from a variety of manufacturers.
History: Between the 1820 and 1890, ancient cities were discovered, such as Troy, Pompeii and Alexandria. Archaeological excavations in Egypt, Greece and Rome, discovered artistic pieces of these ancient cultures. These fabulous discoveries, stimulated cultural trips to these countries, popularly called "grand tour". Being the case that the enthusiast visitors bring back small objects, like souvenirs to be assembled into jewelry. The starting point of these trips were in the cities of Rome and Venice. this is why the craftsmen of these cities created small and interesting objects with ancient characteristics like this cameo.
Revival jewelry: The styles from the renaissance and Middle Ages, begun in the 1850’s, The Renaissance and Egyptian revivals were joined by a classical revival of Greek and Etruscan styles to conform a new aesthetic. As a result of the construction work on the Suez Canal in the mid-1860’s and the Egyptian excavations of Auguste Mariette and the resultant exhibit of Egyptian treasures at the exposition Universelle in 1867, a fascination for all things Egyptian and ancient cultures developed.
Note: Many nineteenth-century jewelers, the most famous being the House of Castellani, were inspired to create their own versions of these ancient pieces, hence “Etruscan Revival.” Characteristics of Etruscan style jewelry include use of high karat gold and semi-precious stones like lapis, malachite and agates, and most distinguishingly, the use of intricate filigree and granulation.
Note: Guilloché is used in fine jewelry to enhance the appearance of brooches, rings and pendants. Guilloché enamel refers to metal pieces that have been given the Guilloché treatment and then covered with a translucent layer of enamel, giving the geometric patterns underneath the enamel a colorful hue.
Collateral: It is accompanied by a presentation jewelry box.
Condition: The condition of this piece is excellent. Beside the little normal wear, there is no damage to the gold. All rubies and the enamels are secured in the settings. This pendant brooch has been carefully inspected to guarantee the condition and authenticity.
INVENTORY REF: P0000MOEM/.3305
